Early 90's yamaha dt200 engine
- Thread starter shiftngeer
- Start date
Here is a list of things to consider ...
Preface: I did not write anything after this point just thought it might help you ...
The primary differences in the Blaster engine's bottom end and the 37F and 4AN(Latin American 93-00 DT200R and DT200) bottom end are very small.
First, Some Important facts about swap
1) Blaster pistons are the exact same as DT200 and DT200R pistons as are the cylinder sleeves(I'll take a pic if you want clarification).
2)I run a Ninja 250r fan, and highly recommend a fan. Not hard to wire in, I ran mine off the battery w/ a set up to let it go off manually or automatically when the rocker switch is placed in a certain postion.
RZ350 radiators work, CRF250X, etc. Just don't get a radiator so big the impeller can't move the coolant efficiently.
In order to get the cooling system to work on the blaster bottom end you'll need one of the custom water pump drive gear for the DT clutch cover.
A DT125L/C MK1,2,3 Waterpump driven gear, and main waterpump shaft gear, as outlined way below or RD125L/C wp driven gear and waterpump gear
C) Have the DT 200 clutch basket machined to fit the bushing which is located in the center of the blaster clutch basket. With the Blaster bushing in the DT basket drive gear/primary drive gear it will fit on the blaster tranny shaft. Also you will have a taller more usable gear ratios.
3) I recommend you make your own harness, Run a 28mm or larger carb on this bike, although if you leave it stock it will perform fine with the 26mm. The 26mm is the size used on the 84-87 canadian models. Same mikuni as blaster just no tors...
The 4AN as I describe also works w/ the blaster bottom end. It was prolly the most powerful of all the DT's... had 33.5-34.5HP varying by magazine/ad you read.
Here's a brief synopsis:
Differences in 37F, 4AN, and blaster cases...
The cases are narrower, so if you use an engine out of the DT you will need to make some shims or bushings of the correct thickness to mount the engine into the blaster frame.
Other than that mounting the engine is a snap. The RZ350, Ninja250r, ATC250r, YFZ450 radiator are all good choices.
The DT200 has taller gears and is designed for dual purpose and street use. Also, the engine has a tachometer gear which runs to where the autolube is installed.
If you do the swap I'm sure you'll want to run the YPVS powervalve system. Regardless of what "Dude" and other people on this forum say the powervalve makes a very big difference in the performance of this engine. In order for this to work you need the following components:
DT200 84-87(88 in greece in iran) Stator
DT200 Servomotor
DT200 YPVS control box
DT200 CDI
DT200 voltage regulator and harness
12V battery OR Zeeltronics or similar battery eliminator kit.
The powervalves are operated by the cables from the servo motor, the servo open/closes the rotary power valve. the servo is actavated from a signal from the CDI via the YPVS controller (black box) hence why you need a battery or condenser, powervalves are elctrically operated.Also there are 2 cables which come off of the servomotor and as the servomotor reads data from the cdi they begin to pull on the linkage located on the DT's cylinder opening the powervalve.
Part 2: SWAPPING THE DT CYLINDER ONTO THE YFS200 BLASTER CASES
Here's what I would do, if you plan on using the bike for the trails you can use your Blaster engine cases.
In order to do this you will need to buy a RD125L/C water pump, and water pump drive gear. Also a DT125L/C MK1, MK2, or MK3 water pump gear, and waterpump. If you take the DT200 water pump, and water pump drive gear out and put the other water pump parts in your DT clutch cover it will allow you to use the Stock blaster basket/primary drive gear.
All aftermarket and stock blaster sleeves, pistons, bottom gaskets, exhausts, reedgaskets, and reeds work on the DT cylinder.
There somewhere is a kit which eliminates the entire YPVS electronics system. It makes the powervalve run off the RPMS of the engine much like the Kawasaki (KIPS). This is not as accurate as the electronic YPVS control, but it sure is cheaper and less of a headache. You gain torque/horse on the low end, but lose some on mid/top because it doesn't maximize the exhaust port duration like the electronic system does.
Preface: I did not write anything after this point just thought it might help you ...
The primary differences in the Blaster engine's bottom end and the 37F and 4AN(Latin American 93-00 DT200R and DT200) bottom end are very small.
First, Some Important facts about swap
1) Blaster pistons are the exact same as DT200 and DT200R pistons as are the cylinder sleeves(I'll take a pic if you want clarification).
2)I run a Ninja 250r fan, and highly recommend a fan. Not hard to wire in, I ran mine off the battery w/ a set up to let it go off manually or automatically when the rocker switch is placed in a certain postion.
RZ350 radiators work, CRF250X, etc. Just don't get a radiator so big the impeller can't move the coolant efficiently.
In order to get the cooling system to work on the blaster bottom end you'll need one of the custom water pump drive gear for the DT clutch cover.
A DT125L/C MK1,2,3 Waterpump driven gear, and main waterpump shaft gear, as outlined way below or RD125L/C wp driven gear and waterpump gear
C) Have the DT 200 clutch basket machined to fit the bushing which is located in the center of the blaster clutch basket. With the Blaster bushing in the DT basket drive gear/primary drive gear it will fit on the blaster tranny shaft. Also you will have a taller more usable gear ratios.
3) I recommend you make your own harness, Run a 28mm or larger carb on this bike, although if you leave it stock it will perform fine with the 26mm. The 26mm is the size used on the 84-87 canadian models. Same mikuni as blaster just no tors...
The 4AN as I describe also works w/ the blaster bottom end. It was prolly the most powerful of all the DT's... had 33.5-34.5HP varying by magazine/ad you read.
Here's a brief synopsis:
Differences in 37F, 4AN, and blaster cases...
The cases are narrower, so if you use an engine out of the DT you will need to make some shims or bushings of the correct thickness to mount the engine into the blaster frame.
Other than that mounting the engine is a snap. The RZ350, Ninja250r, ATC250r, YFZ450 radiator are all good choices.
The DT200 has taller gears and is designed for dual purpose and street use. Also, the engine has a tachometer gear which runs to where the autolube is installed.
If you do the swap I'm sure you'll want to run the YPVS powervalve system. Regardless of what "Dude" and other people on this forum say the powervalve makes a very big difference in the performance of this engine. In order for this to work you need the following components:
DT200 84-87(88 in greece in iran) Stator
DT200 Servomotor
DT200 YPVS control box
DT200 CDI
DT200 voltage regulator and harness
12V battery OR Zeeltronics or similar battery eliminator kit.
The powervalves are operated by the cables from the servo motor, the servo open/closes the rotary power valve. the servo is actavated from a signal from the CDI via the YPVS controller (black box) hence why you need a battery or condenser, powervalves are elctrically operated.Also there are 2 cables which come off of the servomotor and as the servomotor reads data from the cdi they begin to pull on the linkage located on the DT's cylinder opening the powervalve.
Part 2: SWAPPING THE DT CYLINDER ONTO THE YFS200 BLASTER CASES
Here's what I would do, if you plan on using the bike for the trails you can use your Blaster engine cases.
In order to do this you will need to buy a RD125L/C water pump, and water pump drive gear. Also a DT125L/C MK1, MK2, or MK3 water pump gear, and waterpump. If you take the DT200 water pump, and water pump drive gear out and put the other water pump parts in your DT clutch cover it will allow you to use the Stock blaster basket/primary drive gear.
All aftermarket and stock blaster sleeves, pistons, bottom gaskets, exhausts, reedgaskets, and reeds work on the DT cylinder.
There somewhere is a kit which eliminates the entire YPVS electronics system. It makes the powervalve run off the RPMS of the engine much like the Kawasaki (KIPS). This is not as accurate as the electronic YPVS control, but it sure is cheaper and less of a headache. You gain torque/horse on the low end, but lose some on mid/top because it doesn't maximize the exhaust port duration like the electronic system does.
Last edited:
There is a liquid cooling kit for the Blaster top end.
Yamaha Blaster High Performance Liquid Cooling Kit
Yamaha Blaster High Performance Liquid Cooling Kit
i heard the liquid cooling kit is junk. And if it was me the water cooled dt 200 just takes takes some of the simplacity out of the blaster.
Similar threads
