DMC Alien Exhaust

May 18, 2012
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Scotland
Hi guys quick question as i will be wanting to purchase this tomorrow!

the dmc what like is the power increase and is it low,middle or top range?

also i can't plug chop i don't think as if i mind correctly you need to ride the blaster for 5 minutes? and the nearest track to me is like 20 minutes and only open weather permitting. also i can't ride it at my house as if you even start it the cops are there or the neighbours are moaning.

just wondering what jet i should use if i need to rejet. engine is stock,still running airbox lid on and no changes to air flow etc the only thing il be changing is exhaust.

thanks guys I:I
 
Someone might steer you better about the jet size, but to plug chop u install a new plug after its warmed up, rip it down a straight through all 6 gears, cut the power and coast to a stop then check the plug... DMC is more low to mid, but many people say they don't lose anything off the top end
 
Someone might steer you better about the jet size, but to plug chop u install a new plug after its warmed up, rip it down a straight through all 6 gears, cut the power and coast to a stop then check the plug... DMC is more low to mid, but many people say they don't lose anything off the top end

sweet i want it at the low to mid :) as i ride tracks and a quarry so will be awesome for it :D
 
You will love the DMC Alien exhaust! Very high quality,Great price,and DOESN'T leak...ever. The low end is strong like the stock pipe,but with a huge increase in the mid range and a bit more on top with more over rev.

As soon as you add proper porting,and a re-chambered head,LOOK OUT! The power is phenominal!


Its now $280 PLUS FREE SHIPPING direct from DMC!
Yamaha Blaster YFM 200 (87-Current) Exhaust System [25438-00] - $280.46 : Official DMC Online Store for ATV and UTV Exhaust Systems and Slip Ons, Home of the Dual and Twin Exhausts
 
Joe, how would you compare the DMC to the fmf gold series? I been lookin at the DMC myself

The DMC has a bit more mid and more on top plus the over rev. My buddy runs the FMF fatty which is also a great pipe. I would say that the DMC is on parr with a Toomey B1,but with a better price.
Put it this way...I'm not trading this pipe for anything,because it does everything so well!
Its phenominal with the porting and head re-chambering that I do. Scary fast!
 
... As wise as jetting, I would keep it stock then do the plug chop and see what ya need to do

That's the last thing I would do ^^^ I'm guessing at least a 280, depending on all variables. Do a little search or wait till someome with that pipe chimes in. With stock jetting you could melt it down before you finished a plug chop run.

JMHO, your results may, and will vary :eek:
 
With my Mods in my Sig I'm at 290 Main with K&N Filter , No Airbox Lid , Dmc Alien Reed Spacer , Polished Exhaust port , Polished Head , And I'm on the Safe side of my Plug chop .
 
Guess I was wrong, thats crazy these engines arent strong enough to make a run through all of the gears once without melting down just from changing the exhaust... What would ppl do without this site... Glad someone corrected me though I:I
 
Guess I was wrong, thats crazy these engines arent strong enough to make a run through all of the gears once without melting down just from changing the exhaust... What would ppl do without this site... Glad someone corrected me though I:I

No problemI:I I might have exadurated a bit, but long term use would do it. Even With perfect jetting, for every 20* change in temp requires one size jet change. The O P would've thought "Man this pipe ROCKS", but only for a short while:eek:
 
Another thing to note is that DMC states that the needle should be on its richest setting, bottom clip, it is a thirsty beast

I would start at #300 to be on the safe side, if it burbles and babbles, like it is a 4 poke after it gets warm, drop a jet size.

I run a #320 main with nearly the same mods other than I mix at 25:1.
 
Every 20 degrees colder you wouold go up a size, correct?

Correct!

http://ad-discountperformance.com/images/13-2430.jpg

Just from looking at this ^^. They ALWAYS run best just before they blow:eek:

Very , very true a motor running slightly on the lean side will fool you that it is happy with the jetting, and run like a scalded cat.

The problem is that it will slowly but surely fry the piston because of excessive combustion chamber temperatures due to mild detonation caused by a lean air to fuel ratio.

Always jet on the rich side, you will not notice the power loss.
 
Another thing to note is that DMC states that the needle should be on its richest setting, bottom clip, it is a thirsty beast

I would start at #300 to be on the safe side, if it burbles and babbles, like it is a 4 poke after it gets warm, drop a jet size.

I run a #320 main with nearly the same mods other than I mix at 25:1.

thanks blaster! just i can't plug chop due to where i live but il start with a 300 and work down. would i be best buying a dyno jet kit or just buying them separate? any places you recommend for to buy them if i would be better buying them separate? thanks
 
thanks blaster! just i can't plug chop due to where i live but il start with a 300 and work down. would i be best buying a dyno jet kit or just buying them separate? any places you recommend for to buy them if i would be better buying them separate? thanks

no jet kits !!!
they never come with the jets you need, just the ones they can't sale seperately
buy single jets...i like carb parts warehouse

you can jet without plug chopping by starting so large it falls on it's face at WOT, then work down till it feels right.
then maybe +1 up for safety, <(allows for temp/elevation changes daily)
remember... safe is good when not racing !