Carb jetting for air box lid removal.

CrazyDave

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Jul 15, 2017
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The blaster is jetted the same for all elevations ,as per manual. Would that not make it slightly lean at lowest elevations and and a little rich at highest elevations..? Not to mention temps.. If I only open the air box, could I adjust the pilot screw in (if at all) and go up 2 or 3 sizes on the main for a little more performance? I'd like to know a good starting point for the main jet or perhaps a needle adjustment.

I have an all stock '06 blaster used primary for low to mid rpm, 3/4 or less throttle, tight trails, small climbs and log hopping at sea level..
 
By your description, everything else is stock? Rule of thumb, is anytime you change air in or out, you should at least do a plug chop.

The more an engine is modified, the more sensitive it is to changes , to the motor, temps, elevation.
 
Increase the main jet 2 sizes bigger, leave the needle on the middle clip and re set the idle.

Idle adjusting.
Set float level, make sure that all jets are clean and fuel flows freely from the float bowl drain
when the screw is cracked open.
Start with air screw 1.5 turns out.
Set idle screw so that it has some sort of idle. With TORS it is the big screw under seat on top of
unit. With no TORS is is the brass screw midway down carb body.
Warm up motor and then set idle screw for a faster idle, 2000rpm+
Adjust air screw either way to get the fastest idle.
Adjust air screw a little at a time leaving 10 secs or until the motor responds.
Re adjust idle screw for desired idle .
if the air screw ends up being more than 2 1/2 turns out the pi;]lot is too big.
if the air screw is less than 1/2 a turn out the pilot is too small.

Then plug chop to confirm the main.
 
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