Call me crazy,, trz 250 cylinder on blaster

Michaelmch92

New Member
Apr 8, 2017
3
0
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Leeds al
This is my first time posting on here, so if I sound like a idiot please don't be too harsh ha, but I have been doing some research on making my blaster liquid cooled, and I have read all about the dt200 swaps and the aftermarket head that's sold, that I'm sure helps a little, but if your not cooking the cylinder what's the point? But I have come across a fue thing online where guys are saying they are rebuilding a dt200 and instead of using a dt head they are using one of the trz 250 cylinder jugs with the actual dt head, the only think they mention is the trz is a slightly longer stroke. So my question is has anyone heard of this on a blaster there more available then a dt head still have the exhaust valve that I would assume you could use a dt cdi too make the valve work? And just use a dt head? I also have been looking extremely hard too find a cylinder with similar stud pattern and similar stroke length, I don't mind haveing a small amount of work done at the machine shop, but I have Never seen or read of anyone doing such is there any Info out there, I know guys will say you don't need liquid cooled, and I believe if you ride a blaster the way it's ment too you will never have a problem, but I personally do some hard fast riding that the blaster is ment for but I also do a lot of riding with friends who only have utility atvs and let's face it there slow ha, but I like t creep with them through the woods and I definitely can tell a noticeable difference in engine performance after I really have little too no air flow. That is really the issue I would like too fix that and I would like a small performance bump I have a vitto 240 big bore I'm dead even with my friends 400ex I would like wax him ha any ideas guys looking too spend between 300-800 on it more on the 300 side if possible.
 
You will get far more proven performance out of a ported bb cylinder than you will ever make with a dt200 setup. Other than it being liquid cooled there really is no gains horsepower wise. Old technology that will just make you spend more money chasing a pipe dream. As far as going slow at times as long as you are jetted correctly you should have no issues putting around when needed. Sounds like you are trying to convince yourself you need liquid cooled, you don't.
 
You will get far more proven performance out of a ported bb cylinder than you will ever make with a dt200 setup. Other than it being liquid cooled there really is no gains horsepower wise. Old technology that will just make you spend more money chasing a pipe dream. As far as going slow at times as long as you are jetted correctly you should have no issues putting around when needed. Sounds like you are trying to convince yourself you need liquid cooled, you don't.
Not trying too convince myself, people do a lot of stuff they don't need but want, I may not need too go water cooled, but I want too so I'm going too do it, and there are many binifits too it, and no a dt200 stock jug won't make more then a ported bb blaster head but it would definitely be a lot more dependable and durable, the tolerances hasn't been compromised by running a lager piston smaller cylinder walls, creating more heat on a head with less metal. A rd125lc head will also bolt on and can be found on eBay for 60 dollars, the stroke is slightly longer so I would have too replace the crank, it doesn't have the ypvs valve but is a well disighed older liquid cooled model, from what I have read everyone swaps for a dt head because it's a "bold on and go" pretty much mins some simple fab work but I'm trying too figure out why no one has made any of these other heads work, is it lack of research, exsperance, or there a good reason why this hasn't been done????
 
You have some good points, and a ported DT200 cylinder with a 3mm stroker crank would no doubt kick butt. The downside is you have to carry a rad and a half gallon of water around with you. All the seals, hoses, pump and rad parts are prone to their own failures. The YPVS uses its own brain box and the DT200 flywheel, ignition, and CDI are different and require a battery. They do have a better power building timing curve however.

As well as my son's DT200 powered Blaster:
10537120_10152565385665803_4006090999319035637_n.jpg

I have a KTM250 powered Blaster:
303346_10151004900195803_149466793_n.jpg

And a Vitos big bore and stroked 240 air-cooled Blaster (maybe 25-28hp?):
16387000_10154814609390803_3732125944943934661_n.jpg

My son also has a 30hp+ air-cooled Blaster.
All the air-cooled Blasters will run at slow speeds and full power just fine.
Full power/rpm sandpit stuff seems to be the worst for heat. It heats the liquid cooled too.

I'd strongly recommend to stick to air-cooled for the simplicity and reliability.
Good pistons in a well sized and honed cylinder with good oil and air filter will last a long time.

I just put a rechamberd head on the Vito's I am very happy with it. Recommended.
 
Think about air scoops, and check MID-range jetting/plug chop. Keep rpm down.

While almost anything is possible, what ends up being practicle is more important.

Search "Polanda" , Polaris cyl on trx 250.
"Crankenstein" , Rotax cyl on Banshee engine, Backwards :eek::eek::eek: