Blaster wont start

Kayne

New Member
Feb 10, 2009
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I removed the carb and checked it to make sure it was clean I checked all of the linkage and put it back together. I started it and the engine pegged I hit the switch to shut it off and it wouldnt shut off. I shut the fuel off and disconnected the spark plug it ran for about 30 seconds then died. Now it wont start at all. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
 
I took it into a local guy. It dropped a ring and detonated itself into a new piston! He said the reason it pegged is because when it lost the ring the piston gets hot and it detonates on its own until it either seizes or looses compression all together. Thought some of you may be interested.
 
I am not trying to be disagreeable, but my money would be on an airleak or your airbleed screw was way off after working on your carb causing a lean burn condition and that the rind damage was due to the 30 seconds of run time at extreme RPM and lean condition. It does not take long to take apart a piston and rings under those conditions. This is why you should NEVER start a motor without a chain on it and be able to let the clutch out to kill it. I have a friend that has a race shop and has had customers call and ask what to do when he can hear a jet ski or snowmobile in the background running at redline. The best and quickest way to kill in that situation is turn off the ignition and put the bike to full throttle, the additional fuel will richen the mixture and stop the detonation.
 
my bike did that twice but luckily my top end is still in good shape, I jumped on mine and droped the clutch and grabed the brakes to kill the engine. Im in the process of replacing all my seals, and taking off the tors
 
it sounds like it was running too lean. this will happen if the pilot jet is clogged (small one)
or the fuel air mixture is too lean.

most times you can pull the choke and regain control of the carburetor.

they will self detonate.
if you have the air filter hose off it when this happens then just cover the carb inlet with your hand and it will choke out and die.

that's why any jetting or carb tuning i do i start with the air filter hose off and then once i have it close i reinstall the air filter hose and fine tune it.

i'd rather take longer re-jetting or tuning than blow my top end.
 
ahh the feared ' 2 stroke is screaming and wont shut of' your motor decided it didnt wanna be nice to you, you WILL need a top end rebuild now since you killed the fuel and it was screaming with no fuel, which ate the rings if not melted the piston..

when you put it back together again make sure your carb is installed right right and all connectons looks good before you start it! somehting as stupid and acracked boot cant cause khoas
 
also when u go to replace ur top end remember to clean out the bottom end due to the rings and maybe piston pieces did fall down inside there and if any type of metal gets in ur crank bearings it will lock up when ur ridin it n u are lookin at buyin a new crack also lol (I KNOW FROM EXPERIENCE) lol so please just take your time and make sure everything is clean cuz its a pretty penny after ur crank goes and the inside of ur cylinder is scored do to lack of cleaning so then not only do you have to get a new crank u have to get ur cylinder bored and buy a new piston set.... Which roughly i payed $230 for everything after i just payed $175 a wk. before bc i didnt realize that there where metal shavings from the piston breakin the time before....
 
also remember that if you have oilinjection to pre-mix the gas for the first tank to get the oil pumping back threw and when you put the jug on the pistion use 2stroke oil on the piston and rings along with the cylinder walls... MAKE SURE THE RINGS ARE LINED UP
 
and remember the oil that you are using on the piston and rings and cylinder wall you should use that oil from then on out I use Golden Spectro so whatever oil you perfer is what you are goin to want to use....