Hello, I am new to this site and could really use some help. I had picked up a 2000 Yamaha blaster a couple weeks ago and when I got it the guy had a receipt for the blaster just being rebuilt 1 week before I got it, but when he brought it, it would start after 3/4 kicks and it would run but wouldn't idle and as soon as you went to move in first gear it would bog and shut off. now if you were really on the gas it would go. I asked him if it was ever jetted because it has a full fmf exhaust and had no airbox lid. and he said the carb was rebuilt but it had stock jets in it. so I was almost certain it was a jetting issue. So the first thing I did when I got it was did a compression check even tho it felt great with kicking and using my hand I wanted to get a number anyways, I got 120psi. was told that was not great, but good. so next I tore carb off and checked the reeds, they had a nice gap on them but weren't chipped or anything so I was happy they didn't chip and go into the cylinder so I replaced those, started it once and still had the same issue with it not having any low end power so to speak. so I took it somewhere to get it jetted professionally because I was never good at getting jetting correct. when I took it there I asked them to put a heli coil in the drain plug because I knew it was leaking and stripped because the guy had warned me about that. when they called me the next day they said they jetted it and when they put the quad up to do the drain plug they had noticed it was leaking on the bottom where the 2 cases meet. which I should have taken a better look before I bought the quad but unfortunately I didn't. so they put the new drain plug in and put a small amount of silicone on the bottom of the 2 cases where it was leaking and it stopped the leaking but now it is burning gear oil. It is smoking excessively, they told me I probably didn't notice before because when they drained the gear oil out, a very small amount came out so it wasn't able to suck as much through. so in order to save money I told them to stop there because I didn't want to pay a shop to split the cases. so my next step is a leak down test. so my questions are, With the leak down test, how much do I pressurize the cylinder, for example, 5 psi/10psi. and after it is pressurized how do I pinpoint which seal is leaking? I know the old soapy water trick but is that about the only way? even tho all the evidence leads to the halfcase gasket(I believe that's what its called where the 2 cases meet) I'm really hoping its a crank seal which seems much easier to replace. and could this be the root of all my problems? would it leaking gear oil into the cylinder cause it to not want to run at low rpms? because if you start the quad and rev it, it will be fine, after it was jetted it will even try to idle for a quick 5 seconds before it shuts off, but as soon as u try to take off in first gear, it will bog and shut off, but if your really on the gas it will go. it has spark, its getting fuel, has compression, new reeds, new ngk spark plug. sorry for the lengthy post, just like to try to explain everything the best I can. thanks for the help ahead of time guys.
2000 yamaha blaster troubles
- Thread starter Brendon
- Start date
It would be the clutch side seal if it is burning tranny fluid.
you would half to take the kick starter off ect to replace it
and make sure the retaining collar is doing it's job
120psi compression is normal.
sounds like someone split the cases apart and did a bad job putting it back together.
It will never run properly with a airleak/and burning gear oil.
http://www.blasterforum.com/threads/about-air-leaks-save-your-engine.55537/#post-763164
free manual
you got a big job ahead if it is leaking at the cases and shop already looked at it
http://www.blasterforum.com/threads...ervice-and-owner-manuals-free-download.17325/
you would half to take the kick starter off ect to replace it
and make sure the retaining collar is doing it's job
120psi compression is normal.
sounds like someone split the cases apart and did a bad job putting it back together.
It will never run properly with a airleak/and burning gear oil.
http://www.blasterforum.com/threads/about-air-leaks-save-your-engine.55537/#post-763164
free manual
you got a big job ahead if it is leaking at the cases and shop already looked at it
http://www.blasterforum.com/threads...ervice-and-owner-manuals-free-download.17325/
adjusting carb and what not is only going to try to mask the real problem
it may help but will never run 100%
eventually the engine will be toast very soon.
it may help but will never run 100%
eventually the engine will be toast very soon.
I never noticed it was burning gear oil because it had leaked all the gear oil out from sitting and I never put any back in, so when I had the shop do the jetting and heli coil the drain plug and etc, they filled it with gear oil. I put the reeds in because when I took the old ones out they were losing there seal quite noticeably so I was hopeful and thought maybe that was why it wasn't running right. and when that didn't fix it, I asked the guy if it was ever jetted for the pipe and no airbox lid and he said it had stock jets, so that's when I took it to the shop to get jetted and that's when they noticed it was leaking gear oil where the 2 cases meet. I'm assuming whoever split the cases last night didn't line the gasket up or something correctly. I plan to take it to get a leakdown test tomorrow, I'm praying I don't have to split the cases but I have a feeling I am. just sucks because I have put a lot of time and money into this quad but I guess by the time I'm finished, it will be completely brand new and ready to go for a long time. thank you for the manuals and stuff. and your advice. ill keep you updated on how it goes, the plan is leak down test tomorrow, pinpoint where its leaking and start tearing into it.
Those cases can leak all they want if it's just tranny fluid and it will not cause the issue you described. It would if it was leaking into the crank case though. A shop that uses silicone is a shop not for me!!! And yes you will be splitting those cases, sorry no way around it.. Whats your plan for sealing those cases? You should really think about sending it off to Ken. His prices are great and you will get back a fresh motor that is done correctly without silicone. Plus if you screw one thing up you are already out more money. Cut your losses, save some money and send it off. If you pay someone to jet your bike then you should be paying someone to do your motor. Jetting is so simple compared to doing complete motors.
okay thank you guys very much, I tore the motor out today, got the head off, and inspected the cylinder, and piston and the piston itself looks brand new. and the cylinder is in amazing shape. no scores or scratches whatsoever, so that was satisfying to see. but something that I never really considered with this quad for some reason until I started wanting to split the cases was the stator. Could the stator be giving me this problem as well? because ive read multiple articles that say burning tranny fluid wouldn't affect performance and ive read multiple that say it would. although I plan to put all new bottom end gaskets and such in anyways, I'm kinda curious if the stator could be part of the problem because its one of the only things not replaced yet. It will start and run fine. it will even idle, but as soon as I put it in first gear and go to move, it would bog and want to shut off unless I hurried up and pulled the clutch in. now if I really gave it a good amount of gas it would go, I would just have to stay on the gas pretty good to keep it going. although I will most likely just replace the stator anyways, I'm curious if the stator could be making it act up that way. learning quite a bit with this experience, even tho its time and money consuming I guess hands on is the best way to learn. I appreciate all the help you guys provide and kens prices are pretty reasonable and if I didn't have to ship my motor out to him because I live in PA and hes in CT, I would be taking it there in a heartbeat.
Man saying you live in PA and can't ship to CT is just an excuse. Not hard to spend $20 and ship it a few states over. You say you are replacing the lower end gaskets. What gaskets? There are no gaskets in the lower end. All seals and bearings. You can learn all you want but you still need the proper tools to dismantle an rebuild the lower end. Do what you want but I suggest you do lots of reading and watching videos before you attempt anything yourself. We all started somewhere but honestly you need more clues ( don't take it wrong, just being honest) before you start trying yourself. Now onto the stator. If you can start the bike and rev it out but will want to die when you release the clutch unless you keep it in high rpm and then if you keep it in high rpm it is fine then there is nothing wrong with your stator. Again buy a manual if you want to learn and ohm out the stator. Betting you your blaster it ohms out fine. Secondly if you do buy a stator do not buy anything but oem. Not the $30 ebay ones, not amazons 5 star stator, none of them, only oem. The oem $200+ new ones or a oem used one. Ebay china junk is junk and are known to never work out of the box.
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