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I would like some advice on this mess. I removed the swingarm and found a pile of rust where the bearings are supposed to be. The little rollers fell out with some persuasion, but the case to the bearing remains and is rusty. How do I get these out so that I can replace them? Also the carrier...

Stock is an 8" rim. I use 20x11x8 on both blasters and love them. It depends what you want, and everyone will have their own opinion.

$700 is a good price, assuming it has 4 good tires and does not need rebuilt. It looks like around a 1999-2000 with original tires... that shows that it has little use. If it was garage kept, its worth it. Still questions to ask before I would pay 7 large- Does it run/idle? Break problems? Rust...

I am happy to report that this story has a happy ending. All advice in this thread was helpful and useful to anybody with a seriously stuck bolt. Torching in "sessions" slowly, using ATF+acetone, ice cubing the bolt, and only trying to turn a tiny bit at a time finally unstuck it. Thanks a bunch!

I tried 2 nuts first, actually... there was no room to turn a wrench in there but it did grab. The whole thing is on hold, as I'm taking the whole thing off. Now my problem is with the swingarm pivot bolt- wow those things are rough. Its out an inch now and spinning free, but I'm not getting...

I did almost the same thing as bronco. I posted this somewhere else, but here it is again. The pressure-test lid is 7 bucks, though.

^Isnt that the truth.

so that the big black case cover can slide off. You can leave it all alone if you choose, (if it isn't leaking) but most people here wouldn't recommend that- because the plastic gear could end up all through the gears. be very careful not to break any of those screws/bolts... I'm going through...

That thing on the bottom right sticking out is what remains of the oil injection pump. The plastic gear is on the other side of that... you have to take the whole black cover off, its 9 screws I think. Also, your kickstarter has to go first, and drain your trans fluid first. That pump needs to...

Thanks all for your help, lots of useful ideas- but I still didnt get it to budge. I tried just about everything suggested, but whats left of it may break soon. I have lost all faith in PB blaster, I am going to try mixing automatic transmission fluid and acetone for my last try. Anyone here...

vice grips don't fit in there, not without taking the whole thing off the frame. The pic makes the area look big, but its really tight. I may have to take it off before I break it lower. Im getting nervous.

I stopped right here to ask advice first. Everytime I rush through this situation, it ends up worse. What would you guys do with this next? It is PB blasting at the moment... but I am seriously starting to doubt PB blaster. I really dont want to end up drilling this out and tapping. Metal...

WD does take all of everything off... thats the point. Go ahead and splash oil or chain wax all over everything if it makes you happy. If WD destoyed o-rings and chains, why would I still have a stock chain from 10 yrs ago? Every o-ring is intact.

I dont think you have to take those off for a sprocket- it should fit right over your hub. May the blaster force be with you if you take your axle nutz off. PB blaster and a big pipe-wrench, I guess... I hope someone knows a better way. BTW, axle nuts are NOT reverse threaded.

I soak the chain in WD-40 before every ride. I still have the stock o-ring chain on the 00 blaster I bought brand new... so I recommend. Got this tip from my old boss- he raced A class, '88 250R. He swore by it, but he was also sponsored by WD-40 :)

lol supernoober- I made a trunk in the same place! I call it a time capsule, tho. Will post pics later.

Clean carb+ took tors out= idles like a purring kitten. Funny, that chart only shows 1 washer. Thanks guys.

Thanks for the help. Sounds like thats exactly where the washer goes. Back to that spring again...

^whoa, thats not what I expected... I have another disassembled carb with 2 little white washers, too. Maybe that's the culprit right there. Its not in the diagram, tho. Would that have the same effect as changing the e-clip's position? Do u use the 2nd notch from the top?