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im getting a new cylinder {stock} and wanted to do some mild cleanup and porting. i cant seem to find much info or pics of what i need my cylinder to look like when done. any links or guides i can follow?

when i first opened the case the screws were still in there and tight. i did not use locktite. manual was vary vague, but i know i should have anyways, just was in a rush to see if it would work. i dont recall putting it on when i rebuilt the trans 2 years either so hopefully i have a little luck

well i dont like threads that dont have a solution or ending so heres my update installed a new OEM plate stopper in the trans, also took out the wavey ring found in the clutch plates( made a big difference) and then topped it off with some atf since everyone...

well i knew that. i was refering to the viscosity of the oil. (ATF) most engines recomend a different viscosity for different outside temps.

so for all the guys running atf, did anybody notice fluid expansion once the bike got up to operating temp.?

why type F? what makes it different from dexIII or +4? ive been hearing lots of good things about running atf but have been worried that in hot temps such as 100+F that it would thin out and cause greater wear on internal parts? am i just paranoid?

i was hoping that someone had a case open and could compare their bearing movement with mine (shown in video) i want to say that it is normal because when you dissasemble the trans that input shaft and bearing just slide out of the case, and that is the purpose of the bearing stopper (thats what...

no, the basket should be fine. the grooves go all around it (because it was spinning while the broken peice was jammed somewhere in the case) but if you run your finger across the basket you can fell a slight depression where the aluminum is missing. and its the same all around it.

http://i1213.photobucket.com/albums/cc462/125pb/63107c67.jpg yeah thats what i thought, at first i thought the clutch plates ground into each other but then i noticed the clutch basket, looks like the bearing stopper got cought between it and the case and ground the basket?

balancer gear seemed ok, didnt notice any play or loosness

17bc799e.mp4 video by 125pb - Photobucket http://i1213.photobucket.com/albums/cc462/125pb/825993bb.jpg http://i1213.photobucket.com/albums/cc462/125pb/116b7e23.jpg ok guys i need a second opinion, while riding i noticed my clutch wasnt working right and everytime i would pull it in it...

excellent anwser^ just what i was looking for

but when i convert .0025 inches to mm i get .06mm.

http://www.blasterforum.com/general-support-17/piston-clearance-28153/ so if i let it drop to 100psi and everything is in spec with .03mm clearence????? some new rings will be fine?

^^^ i plan to, ive read that .03mm is the clearence needed but also read that ken o conner prefers .06mm because in his opion oem spec is a little tight. any one have some insight?

no noticible loss in power, i just want my baby to be at the top of her game. i want to do it now then when its to late. so do i need to worry about any chamfering of ports?

does the hone take away some mm on the cyl. wall? and how should a proper hone be preformed? do the ports need chamford?

just looking to make sure im on the right track. my blaster is putting out about 115-120 psi. it was about 135 when it was rebuilt, i know that it has been dropping off over a period of time whitch is normal for a 2 stroke motor. im wanting to do some rings in it to get it back up to 135-140. i...

depends on what your talking about, 24/1 is more oil then fuel yes, but less fuel getting in the combustion chamber witch is a lean motor, 100/1 is more fuel in the combustion chamber but less oil in the crank and cylinder wall. and why dont you just run that piston? a little...

that video was hard to watch, i bet that motor didnt last the rest of the season. but man these motors sure can revvvvvvvv