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on the crankshaft? I took my cylinder off today because I had been hearing "piston slap" and I can probably move the piston about a 1/2" back and forth on the crankshaft. Is that normal? I'm gonna mic the cylinder and possibly have it bored/honed depending on the specs.

Thanks all for the replies. I was assuming that would be the case, but wasn't sure if that held true for these cylinders. Also, I was thinking about buying a second head to have ported. Whatever shop does the porting should be able to tell me the specs for the bore on my cylinder so I know...

When you rebuild the top end do you need to have your cylinder honed?

Thanks guys for the info. I'm gonna try the teflon thread tape.

This is where the oil is coming from. The bottom hole that the stator mounts to.

I replaced the crank seal on the flywheel side because I thought I had a oil leak there. I didn't completely put it back together and when I went out tonight it looks like there was a little bit of oil sitting in the bottom of the case. I'm thinking where can this be coming from? I took the...

I'm thinking I need to do put in a new piston next spring, but I'm just curious what the stock bore is on a Blaster and how do you go about determining if you need have your cylinder bored or not? I know you'll have to measure the cylinder but what tolerances determine what piston size you'll need?

A Blaster?

I had a similar problem w/ my Blaster and stock carb. I removed TORS and the thing revved out of control also. I also couldn't get power at about half throttle. It felt like it wanted to go but couldn't. I tried rebuilding carb and changing main jets w/ no luck. I had access to a 30mm carb...

Please excuse my ignorrance here, but would you just get a new sleever after that?

Thanks carnage. I'm going to pick up some more jets to experiment. I'm removing fuel filter first and trying that.

Well, at least when I get it I can rule out the carb. The guy I'm buying it from said it ran great on his bike w/ no mods. I can also completely eliminate the TORS this way to. If it turns out that I don't need it I'll just sell it or something.

Thanks everyone for all the info. I will try a few of these suggestions. In my desparation I bought a 30mm Trenga aftermarket carb in the For Sale forum here that I'm going to try to. Haven't gotten it yet. I'll let you know what I find.

I don't think it's the CDI, what I disconnected just had a white plug w/ a yellow and black wire going to it. I'm running a 240 main right now. Nothing is really done to the bike. Moose air filter, FMF fatty is about it.

TORS: Unplugged the cable coming from the "throttle box", removed the TORS "brain", and unplugged the cable from the TORS unit on the carb. That's it right?

Nahh, jet is brand new. I have fresh 93 fuel mixed 32:1 w/ a filter before it hits the carb. I'm actually leaning towards tors but it's weird because when I follow the steps in the diy for tors removal it doesn't work on mine. When I disconnect the "tors brain" the bike revs really high when...

Everything in the carb is brand new. I just rebuilt it w/ a rebuild kit.

Having an issue where the bike won't open up at about half throttle through any gear. I rebuilt the carb and just replaced the reed valves. It seems a little better. I'm not real knowledgeable on carburetors unfortunately. I turned the air/fuel screw 1.5 turns out like I've been reading...

The rear bar is on the factory pegs? Can you post a pic?