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how about the cases, what would you want for them?

Ditto. And its always good to have the extra seals that You dont use lying around for when a different seal goes out.

You can cut out your old airbox and put in an aluminum box then you can run a cylindrical K&N. Mine from CFM is SICK. Im sure the one pitboss sells is just as good.

U can find internal bearings at Motorcycle Parts, Motorcycle Accessories ? BikeBandit.com or the dealer

Which studs are you referring too? Really I wouldn’t call them studs if they ever had some sort of head on them ie, screw head or bolt. The only "true studs" I can think of on a blaster are the cylinder 2 case studs and these are threaded on both sides. This can actually be done at home, if...

For that head you might want to run a high compression gasket. Cosmic makes one, I know its used for the CT sonic 240 kit though. And Allen Knowlles from CT has told me over the phone that if you dont have a new gasket and the old one was not used much, just heat it till its very red with a...

Ive got one close to that, if not shaved more. I havent used it though. Please post results when you get them.

But if he has good compression. Im not sure the key is broken. But possibly. Do the checks that 370 has suggested. Thats the way to find your problem. Also do a search on here, I wrote up the entire procedure a few years back. You can search by my name and find all the posts Ive done...

I just wanted to reiterate this!!!!! Timsyfz thanks for the luv

WHAT??? THey are all crucial. Thats why the factory put them there.

LOL. its not a tuning fork, blasterfreek. but your going in the right direction. Its a pickle fork (pitman fork is pretty much the same thing). A tunning fork is used to tune musical instruments. I think You just called it the wrong name, you had the correct tool.

PLEASE, Please listen to the replys on here. STay away from DG for the blaster. Your better off saving that money util you can afford a better system.

Im not sure Im clear. Did you get the axle out of the carrier first? The axle needs to be out to get your bearings out.

check your plates to see if there worn, and the alignment marks on the pressure plate against the mark on the clutch boss should line up. and then if all that is good then you just need to play with the rod that is connected with the pressure plate and make it either shorter or longer...

did you take the clutch cover off like the other member said. maybe its the shift star, or clutch. You can look at them both when the covers off.

Thats what I was wondering too.

As for the bearings you have to get a long steel rod called a drift. or compromise and use a ratchet extension and tap around the bearing until it comes out. this can be quite a bit more than a tap really.

Yes you can do both of the procedures you ask about. Yes the axle bearings can be difficult. But if you use the right methods and tools it can make it a bit more tolerable. Or you can get lucky and its really easy, it all depends on the condition of your carrier and axle. Best method to get...

yea you should have another nut that screws in on the back side of the pressure plate. i bet the kit does not come with that and they assume you should have your old one. IDK call them (who you bought it from) up and ask if it should have been in the kit.

do you know for sure if you can get it into neutral and or into 1st? So it rolls all the time in neutral and in a gear is what your saying?