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good ole Wiseco is now having their way over-priced pistons made in Taiwan, if it has lathe turned marks on the bottom skirt its from there, great another American Co. bailing on us, their parking lot is probably full of foreign nameplate cars too, pricks.

when you pull in the lever the clutch actuator in the motor has a flat on it and when you pull it it puts pressure on the first shaft that puts pressure on the ball which puts pressure on the next shaft that is fixed to the pressure plate (cap) and then its pushed off the plates and your clutch...

put both clusters in the case (sprocket side), put shiftfork #3 in first then the shift drum, then #2 then #1 now all the gears should be lined up with each other slide the fork pins in, all the gears will turn when you turn 1 shaft, put the clutch side case on, with a thin coat of yamabond 4...

A yz490 would have more torque but a banshee would still beat it

where's the pics?

turning a bearing is tough I wouldn't do it, hell the tooling would cost more than a bearing and I believe Vitos sells KOYO as a blaster bearing, thats why I was confused with the wrong bearing, call Vito's and talk to Lane he will help you out, if its Vito's fault they will refund your money or...

I've ground bearings but never turned them and I'll bet you didn't either

thanks blaster hp there is nothing wrong with the crank its a bearing issue and if you had to turn it down (WHICH YOU CANT) You purchased the wrong parts when you slam a companies parts lets make sure we are slamming the right ones thats all, and those cranks could never be moved during shipping.

nd jat, that makes perfect sense but thats a bearing issue not a crank issue

why would you turn down bearings? and what part did you do it to? you are the only one thats had a problem thats all, to come on here and rant and rave usually meens a first timer, and I've seen alot of mechanics that have worked on things for years and they still can't get it right, and if you...

you must have no idea what your doing, the crank does not come with bearings, I have used that crank at least 20 times and never had a problem, some cases need to be touched up but not very often, you need to explain how you assemble things you have done something wrong and you may do it again

I had my sons blaster done by Kennedy in Michigan with a sleeve kit and a 3mm crank(244cc) with a full drag port job. The kit came with V-force 3 reeds handed ported, 40.5mm carb, Vito pipe, adjustable stator plate, and clutch kit. It made 44HP on pump gas ran on a 188 dyno jet at 10,300 RPM

If you have a engine set up that works great in the trails; why would it be a waste of time dyno testing different pipes? That to me would be great info to have to choose a pipe that works for your riding condition. I am not sure why you would suggest that it would be inaccurate if your port...

that thing needs a pipe, it ain't gonna run with that, not right anyway

about shearer, I wanted a pipe built by him and he wouldn't do it because he did not have a bike there, I told him I'll send you the pipe just copy it and he said nope if I can't dyno the bike I will not build a pipe! that told me if he's making a pipe its definately gonna work

I was hoping to see 40 hp with port job (I understand trade secrets and for them to keep degrees to themselves) say 35 carb this pipe and this much torque , I don't want a 240 that has 50hp but zero torque and you need to ring its neck to get it going

sorry Wildcard thats what I meant, if I send you a blaster cylinder and I want a strong power band what kind of nos. can I get ? what pipe carb reed, I want a torque monster

it seems we have a few engine builders on this site can we get a little info on what we can expect out of a 200 or 240 kit?

how about reading the piston and not the plug, get a nice wash about a 1/4 inch and your good

always make sure you have the cylinder on when you check it, it keeps the rod at the correct angle without the cylinder on it will hit every time.