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Keep in mind the gap for a namura, comes with the instructions. is a different animal compared to a wiseco. wiseco has a looser gap. a namura has a tighter ring gap. You likely know this, but thought, why not mention it. I have both, one in each blaster. I think I like the cheap namura...

Did you get the key on right ? check the key ! don't take much for it to be off and not start ! off the wall here, how about a leak down check ? you can have top end compression and still have a air leak down lower ! Sporty

I've done this two times, and one time, the bearings were still good and It was just a mild sticking and everything went back together and worked fine. the 2nd time was on another blaster and it was rusted in there and I replaced all the bearings and seals. There was some posts here, that...

I still do some, im not here much as I use to be, back to work and the kids are keeping me busy these days. I am doing some for someone on here, this weekend. Sporty

No, I don't sorry.

My blaster, keeps rubbing up on the other blaster. I think she has a crush on the other one. I hope my blaster has not been naughty, Or santa wont bring him anything.

Ah, Thanks, glad the worked out for you. One of the things, that happens, if after the stickers have been sitting around awhile, they do get harder to peal off. And I know I had to adjust my blade awhile back and it might have been when I made them. Sometimes I use 1mil and then 3mil...

What have you looked at or tried ? Wht are you all running ? oil injection ? what kind of mods ? stock pipe ? last time the crank seals were replaced ? last time you cleaned the carb ? replaced the spark plug ? There could be many reasons to your issue. low compression, air leak...

Congrats Corey ! Shoot me a pm and I will send you one free blasterforum decal. Its already made. I have done this for the winners the last couple of months.

Looks really clean ! j/k, ya almost hate to ride them, after you get it all together and its like brand new. But then riding it pretty dang cool too. Can't wait to see it all together, A+ Sporty

Joe, It's always a real treat, when you post. Most of the time, you post some real good pictures and info on the work. And the work looks great. Thanks, Sporty

I totally am with Sicvic on this one, your compression, is created from the rings and the upper part of the piston. The lower part of the piston skirt is below that compression area and while it may make less compression some, it would still ride and run. And unless you listened for noise...

Don't know what your budget it. Butif you cant find a used case, which I see them on e-bay sometimes for a fiar price, a 1/2 seem to run from $60 to $100. You might also check with local aluminuim repair shop in your area, if you have the broken piece, they could likely weld it for...

Thanks for posting the pics of the wsm mark on the piston. here is what mine looked like new, before I put it in. I wonder about the coating, how long it stays or if thats something they only started doing a few years ago ? anyone know ? I wonder how long the coating lasts, if indeed...

Iwould have to agree with what many have said and my own view on the pictures. that piston looked to have had some blow buy for awhile. My guess is, you wind out, that the lower part of the cylinder wall is worn and out of spec. resulting in piston slap. So don't be to hard on your friend...

Squish head ! Over a stock head, it makes a nice size differance. Sporty

See highlighted in yellow above, on your link, post. (diesel engine oil)

um no!, you said desiel oil. nope

I think I posted kell blue book value for that model ! I think it was around $1,400 or $1,600. Unless the dealer, rebuild the motor, Id say anything over $2,000 is way to much. Sporty

My thoughts are as follow, either it sat for awhile or is outside allot, the rust on the nuts, is a flag to me, that you may be over due for some new crank seals. I certainly, as mentioned in the other video post of yours, check the compression on it. Myself, if it was me, Id tear it...