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id suspect sumthing in the clutch assembly....grab clutch lever at the case with a pair of pliers being careful not to damage...check to see if it moves freely....when u pull in clutch and watch lever at case does it move at all?

hav u checked ur throttle cable? i like to take off tail and look inside carb at carb slide turning idle screw in until it just starts moving slide...then start it up and set the idle.......MAKE SURE THROTTLE CABLE HAS SLACK....if the cable is too tight at the thumb throttle it will idle up and...

well i wouldnt consider it "built" either but alot of people like that term lol a stock blaster with 1mm overbore is far from built lol

i like them.....i got the dual stage carbon fiber with there bullseye reed cage deal....sumthin diff not as cheap as ur basic dual stage but not as expensive as a rad valve either....overall i think there great for the money

just curious to kno what sum of u guys cranking compression is on stock motors vs bigger bores like 67mm 68mm??? i have a stocker at 127

big like 300 .....best to do plug chops to verify here are my current setups std bore open airbox uni filter advanced timing vitos bullseye reed cage w dual stage carbon reeds dg head pipe powercore tip 290 main 3rd needle clip 67 mm bore mild porting boyeson dual stage reeds open airbox uni...

LOOKIN FOR LEFT SIDE CASE NO CRACKS SHIPPED TO CENTRAL FLORIDA ASAP HAV SUM CASE DAMAGE AFTER PREVIOUS OWNER PISTON FAILURE

have a piston here with the number 3817A and fresh honed ported cyl with it looking for size/info any help would be great!

yea its getting split anyway....now having issue with 3rd gear dont wanna go higher stopping at 3rd......assuming theres bearing material caught in trans

so i hav a new project here at the shop and the trans bearing went boom boom all needle bearings fell into clutch cover/case.... question is can i swap this bearing without splitting cases...it is the sprocket shaft

i would suspect ur choke see if its tight ...could possibly need cleaning hav u checked plug after u kick and it wont start? is it wet w fuel? also check ur coil wires...seen them slide off and cause popping and bangin hard start issues

remove carb remove slide small amount of grease on tip of bit drill nice and strait.....small amount of grease on tap...tap nice and strait go slow take ur time as this is a fast job anyway....the grease is to prevent shavings falling in carb

this may seem stupid but....hav u changed spark plug?

im sure ur way too lean with no lid hav u checked ur current main? stock is 230

u need to do plug chops or checks do u know how to read plugs? start high like a 300 main 3rd clip on needle....a 290 and 3rd or 4th clip on needle or 300 should get u close but u need to read plugs....idle air should be 1 1/2 that controls the idle mixture only the needle clip and main jet...

did u ever fix this bike? have u checked ur reeds....bet ones broke...

always remember if ur bike wont kickstart but pushstart....it has low compression.....after it gets hot it may kick do to expansion of aluminum...when u push start it spins the motor several times building the compression to run....the kicker only spins the motor a couple times

come to find out sumthing in tors broke causing idle to hang....pulled tail off and carb slide was half way up.....i ordered the tors delete cable and idle screw.....pulled tors apart pulled idle all the way down runs perfect just wont idle of course.....thanks guys

i just did a little inspecting and noticed no gasket in between rad valve and reed cage but reed cage to jug has gasket???...i pulled it apart and it looks like sumone used a clear sealer to try and seal it.....

was riding today bike was running fine then it got kinda boggy i eased up to my drive way pulled clutch hit kill switch and the bike all the sudden revved outta control has 280 main needle clip 4th from top dg head pipe powercore silencer open airbox....theres plenty of slack in cable tors has...