2000 blaster 200 no start

project

New Member
Aug 28, 2010
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hello to all
i'm new to the site. i happened upon it looking for help with my friends atv. He rode it home one day, turned it off and now we cant get the thing to start no matter how long you kick it. we even tried pulling it around with my atv and it still wont start. only luck ive had is by spraying starter fluid into the intake but once it burns it it shuts right down. so im assuming its getting spark if that works. its definately getting gas into the carb from the tank also i took the carb off and cleaned it, not that it was that bad inside anyway. anybody know what i should check next???
 
With a leak down tester. You can make one if you can find the pieces, or you can buy one. Here is the link to the DIY leakdown tester build.

http://www.blasterforum.com/do-yourself-20/build-use-leakdown-tester-10663/

Here is a link from a trusted member that sells them for a smokin' price. You might pay upwards of $300 from a major manufacturer.

http://www.blasterforum.com/sale-18/leak-down-testers-28728/

Search around on this site. You can learn ALOT. There are alot of knowledgeable people here and they are more than willing to help.
 
Yeah, a compression test is good. If you lost compression, you wouldn't be ab;e to pull fuel from the carb.

You might want to check the reeds, too. A broken or missing petal makes a big difference

If these come up negative then for sure try a leakdown test. Fantastic way to find stuff you didn't know was bad.
 
the pressure test came back at about 120psi. my buddy looked at the reeds and said they look ok except the petals are kinda losing their seal but he said it would still run and start like that. the plug is sparking on every kick too. guess i should do a leak down test. getting frustrating
 
would anything electronic stop the bike from starting, but still allow it to start with starter fluid?
 
If you are getting spark, fuel, and air, it should start. Unless you have an airleak. Put it back together and kick it with the switch and fuel ON. Pull the spark plug and see if it is wet. If it is not wet and you have strong spark, then you have an airleak. When you pressurize the cylinder, it should hold air for about 15 to 20 minutes with minimal pressure loss. Spray around the base gasket, head gasket, carb and all air intake connections with soapy water and look for bubbles. Also take the flywheel and stator off and spray around the crankshaft at the seal. I am betting that is where the leak is. Good luck.
 
i just disconnected the tors setup as told in the diy, because it just seems like its not getting fuel the way it starts right up immediately with starting fluid. but it wont start still. i disconnected the fuel line to the carb and connected another hose and tried to blow into it but i cant. does this mean anything?? i figure if i cant blow into it, the fuel cant get in there either
 
That's might be an indicator of a problem, but you said it was definitely getting fuel into the carb. Which way are you getting resistance? If you are blowing into the carb but the float bowl is full of fuel, then the float needle will be closed, making it damn hard to blow through.

Either way, if you are getting spark, have compression, good reeds, then it is a most likely a fuel delivery problem. Does fuel flow freely from the tank, through the petcock and fuel line? If so then it is time to take another look at the carb. Did you clean both the pilot and main jets, and most importantly, did you spray through all the passages with carb cleaner, making sure it came out in the carb throat somewhere?

Also, how is the quality of the fuel? When you take the float bowl off, do it right side up so that you can see if there is any droplets of water or other crap in it. Water will separate out and look like little bubbles rolling around on the bottom of the float bowl. When you check for flow from the fuel line, drain it into a glass jar. Let the fuel sit for a few minutes and then look carefully for water there too. I will stress that you need to look carefully at this one because I had a similar "ran one day, not the next" experience with water in my tank.

Although I agree that a leak test is a good idea, generally air leaks won't keep it from running entirely. The only likely non-fuel cause is timing, meaning a sheared flywheel key. But this would show as a wet spark plug. The prob with this idea is that you said it ran on starting fluid, but ether is so volatile that it can ignite with just compression, so I wouldn't rule this out entirely yet.
 
finally, its alive! like i had said before i dont really know what im looking at when i take the carb apart. It had appeared it was getting gas when i first opened it up because gas spilled out, but not much. sure enough the float needle was seized up and stuck closed, even a little bit of rust holding it. cleaned it all back up right this time and put it back together and it started after 3 kicks!!
Everybody here that replied big thanks goes out. Royalt67, it sounds like you know your stuff.
thanks everyone, i'll definatley be coming back here in the future
 
hello i just bought a 2000 Yamaha Blaster im having problems, it wont start i replaced the ignition coil because it was not getting any spark and now I'm not getting any fuel and also i eliminated the TORS system, how do you know when you have a bad piston? sorry i don't really know how to explain very well.
 
I have a 98 blaster basically have new everything except bottom end getting gas spark new reeds all new gaskets good compression and all stock have a manual been through it one hundred times over checked everything three times will fire then bog out won't really rev out and only runs for a matter of seconds what am I missing guys any help is greatly appreciated
 
I have a 98 blaster basically have new everything except bottom end getting gas spark new reeds all new gaskets good compression and all stock have a manual been through it one hundred times over checked everything three times will fire then bog out won't really rev out and only runs for a matter of seconds what am I missing guys any help is greatly appreciated
Could be a combination of things. Bad stator, yes they will spark by eye but not enough to run properly. Tors unit issue, could be brake switch but thats usually 03-06. Fuel, air, spark and compression and she should run.
 
If you are getting spark, fuel, and air, it should start. Unless you have an airleak. Put it back together and kick it with the switch and fuel ON. Pull the spark plug and see if it is wet. If it is not wet and you have strong spark, then you have an airleak. When you pressurize the cylinder, it should hold air for about 15 to 20 minutes with minimal pressure loss. Spray around the base gasket, head gasket, carb and all air intake connections with soapy water and look for bubbles. Also take the flywheel and stator off and spray around the crankshaft at the seal. I am betting that is where the leak is. Good luck.