new to me blaster few questions.

crash said:
My concerns with the stock carb is all that extra junk on top of it(Mines taped too). But my main concern is the pre set pilot..

Do I have to buy a throttle cable if i want to use a 26mm oko carb?
Click to expand...

Where did you get the idea of a pre-set pilot ? As to your carb, sounds like either the carb body is stripped or the TORS cap is.
You get a TORS elimination kit, comes with cable, cap, drill, tap.
Use Blaster TORS elimination cable with the OKO carb. Make sure it has the correct slide cutaway, slides are pricey if you have to change them for tuning.

As to your pipe, while it looks cobbled together, it may work on, you won't know until you try it.

FYI on the OKO carbs. When they first came out they were the hot ticket, especially for Banshee's. Then quality fell and there were issues with chrome plating peeling off the slides and issue with fuel inlet circuit, leastwise when used on Banshees.
 
I ment the pilot jet is not interchangeable on the carb I have. Also the cap has tape holding tors on to the carb it is functional now so I don't want to mess with it. I was trying to find the approx. # jet rating of the pilot circut last night but failed.

I just have a new carb laying around I would choose kehian(or how ever its spelled) over oko its just what I have.
 
That carb with fixed pilot is not a stock Mikuni. The Blaster uses a 32.5 for just about ALL applications stock to modified engine.

If you have the OKO no real reason not to use it. They use Kehine jets.
What size is it? Measure inside of engine side where it goes into the boot.
 
I did get the cases split. I only had to ez out 4 screws!!!! I was so excited to get into that tranny to see how it shifted gears n stuff' I was so confused shift star what? All I can say is I am pretty dissapointed in the simplicity and lack of vodoo magic that goes on in that tranny. It all looks Pretty bullet proof along with the clutch & plates. I am happy with the condition of everything. I do have a bearing in the case still on the clutch side the crankshaft is stuck in the other side. I did go borrow a puller yesterday. I saw on the internet that the side that my bearing got stuck in is suposta be a slip fit or something and the other side is press fit. Cannot confirm that yet. I hope these bearings dont give me trouble. I did get the carb issues all figured out too. thx all
 
they are both press fit bearing, no slips on the crank. Usually the only trouble with the tranny that I have seen is from owner put together error. Usually when the cases are split the crank stays on the stator side of the case and the clutch side come free.
 
When I did my 3mil I actually had to "swedge" both sides :confused:

I also had the right side output shaft bearing "slip" a little when I was replacing the counter shaft bearing. Took three tries before I figured it out :(:mad: !! Everything was fine until the last little screw tightening , then it bound up. Amazing how a couple thousand can make a difference !!

Harmonic balancer puller works great for splitting the cases.
 
The Harmonic Balancer puller worked great thats what I used too. I am watching KOR blaster assembly vids and he says I should "bench shift" it. Im accually lil worried about that. It always binds up after three or four shifts I am spinning the gears and not the shaft like I think I should of. I will play more today. what I was getting at the tranny has to be perfect then you have to worry about the crank going in ect. ugg "keep your hand steady surgen" its all coming together I will be putting on my cht gage and breaking this puppy in b4 i kno it..... or at least that is the idea........
 
Sometimes"bench shifting" isn't easy because you don't have any flywheel effect like you do when riding. You have the wheels on output shaft and inner hub/driven plates on input shaft. Sometimes it helps to put a little drag on one or the other shaft and/or spin the shaft a couple of revolutions before the next shift.

Only when it refuses to shift after several attempts is it a problem. Be sure to have plenty of assembly lube on any bearing and especially any gear that slides. Sometimes you have to shift back down then back up to get it to shift.

I know it's a PIA with the lube because you're trying to keep the case halves clean of oil so the sealer will stick.
 
So I was able to "bench shift" all gears feel a lil better about that. I am considering doing the diy timing advance mod to my stator plate. I noticed something that is not right I think. The bike did have spark when I got it but I may have pulled these two wires apart idk what happned. The yellow wire with red stripe is not connected to nothing in my stator. and the yellow wire comming from the block thing on the plate is disconected. the two wires in question went to a booger of goop not very well they needed fixed I just dont know how they went. Were they gooped together, apart, grounded,........
 

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yea my camera sux

The yelow wire with red stripe leads nowhere where does it connect on the stator?
the 2inch yellow wire comming from the block thing on the stator also leads nowhere

I just really need to find a good pic I cant seem to find the correct diagram that shows those connections.
 
I am so bummed about this stator I cant find a good pic that shows the connections I need no where :(
 
I will just get out multimeter and ohm test it till its right.

I have a 40 tooth rear sproket with 18x9.5-8 tires I assume 18 in rims? The front tires are brand new.
The rears are at the scary to run point.

Thinking about taking off (all unused wires n junk) the high/low beam kill switch buttons considering I have no lights and the kill switch did not seem to functional. I want to just rewire the whole damn thing myself the whole bike is just hack hack hack.

Do you need the factory wiring harness? or what i have left of one.......
I think that may be a ez job and clean up the bike a little or am I wrong?

Is that dooable just wire the stuff I need to replace the factory wiring harness?
 
So my source coil and pickup coil resistance ohmed out correctly its just that dang yellow red striped wire. that must go to the lights. it was not mentioned in the troubleshooting electrical check list idk. I was just worried that the wire i pulled off may have been grounded to the stator its self. I think it was just gooped there to stay put out of the way for them wires to connect. If that made any sence to anyone but me.
stator problem solved!!!
 
So many coils they all passed multimeter tests except the one that has the spark plug wire. time to order a new one I see they go from $7.99 to $140.00. Any reasonable priced reliable ones ?
 
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