Not hitting powerband

Ok my blaster revs pretty high in neutral

it revs high on it's own ? or when you rev it by pushing the thumb throttle ?
if on it's own....
that would point to a low fuel level in the bowl due to a high float height, or an airleak.


I didn't move the needle till the third from the top cuz wouldn't that just make it rev even higher?

lowering the needle clip from the 2nd notch down, to the 3rd down (middle), raises the needle adding more fuel
 
it revs high on it's own ? or when you rev it by pushing the thumb throttle ?
if on it's own....
that would point to a low fuel level in the bowl due to a high float height, or an airleak.




lowering the needle clip from the 2nd notch down, to the 3rd down (middle), raises the needle adding more fuel
When it's in neutral it idles high, but stays like that it doesn't rev any higher. And I don't know how to adjust the idle. Exactly if you would move the clip down to the third it would add more fuel and increase its idle, correct?
 
I think you said it was currently at second from top, which puts the needle down further into the Needle jet, making it slightly leaner from 1/4 to 3/4 throttle than the stock setting of 3rd slot down. If it were me i would go bsck to the 3rd slot, as AWK suggested.

Being lean can be dangerous and you especially dont want to be lean. If something doesnt seem to be running right,or while making other tuning changes.
Which way did the screw need turned , and how many turns out from sested did it end up.if adjusting the airscrew made the difference of coming on the oipe or not, you are definitely off somewhere else ( needle )

When i got my Blaster. It had the airbox lid removed, a dg pipe and oil oump unhooked.
The carb was super screwy.
The oil injection hole was left open, the airscrew was screwed all the way in rich, the carb cap gasket was chewed all to pieces and it was running the stock main jet. It was so sick i couldnt get it to come up in second with 13 tooth cog an 18" tires, and it topped out at a whopping 40 maybe 45 mph. Come a long way since then, and still got a ways to go,
Carbs arent complicated but can be finicky, start with the pilot jet and airscrew. Once you got it then you can do your needle and main. But put that needle back to stock, with the sirbox lid off, clean filter, and 220 main jet, you need that extra fuel throughout mod throttle.
And yes if your needle or needle and main jet is to lean it will keep it from making power.
Anyhow there are plenty of tuning guides out there.
Once you have checked float height, set the needle to stock, verified goo fuel flow, new plug etc.
Best thing to do is to get maybe one smaller and the next 5 or so bigger main jets. First find you a stretch long enough to hold WOT in 3rd or 4th from idle to redline. Before you make any changes, go out on the path get rolling just above idle in whstever gear your going to run and go WOT from that slow pace.not how it feels based on your current jetting and setup this should be lean, any popping weakness, etc.
Once you have done this and know where your starting, and how lean feels, sounds (make a second pass if you need to) then you are ready to start jetting. Put in the largest jet (around 270 or 280) and get rolling a good little bit above idle sameas before, then roll the throttle to WOT and hold it there, it should be noteably rich, and will probably cough and sputter, it will likely get to a point where it will clear out and go. Try to notice how it feels, sounds, acts, this is a super rich engine. Work your down the jet sizes doing the same run each time (same gear, same speed,same path) noting how it acts each time. As you go down the jet sizes, it will eventually clear up an start running better. The biggest jet that runs clean and smolth from low rpm to redline is likely on size bigger than you will end up with, note this size, then drop one size smaller and do a plug chop run. You might need abigger area to do plug chops.
Anyhow the idea is to teach yourself how to hear or feel a rich or lean motor, with enough practice you can start to hear rich or lean from the parking lot as your buddy rides across the hillside. Being able to tell rich from lean is as important as knowing how to leak test or knowing how to mix your gas.

If you have any trouble reading your plug chops post a picture up here, some of the guys here have handled more chopped plugs, than autozone has stocked in the back.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Christoph
its hard to get it into powerband. The further I turn the air screw out the higher it idles.
 
if you would move the clip down to the third it would add more fuel and increase its idle, correct?

the needle has nothing to do with idle, idle is all pilot and airscrew setting.
put the needle clip in the middle !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

when you adjusted the airscrew, did you follow the link i posted above and tuned it for highest idle ?
then turn the idle down with the idle screw on top of the carb,
take your seat off, lift rubber flap and look under fuel tank to on top of tors unit on top of carb, the nickel sized big slotted screw adjusts the idle, turn it counter clockwise to decrease idle rpm's


its hard to get it into powerband. The further I turn the air screw out the higher it idles.

you want the airscrew where it idles the highest, then turn idle down using the idle screw as posted above /\
 
It idles highest at like over 2 turns out.

32.5 pilot ?
check float height, the fuel level in the bowl effects all jetting ranges.
clean your air filter
see if that makes a difference.
either way, you want the airscrew set for highest idle, if it's over 2 turns out with a 32.5 pilot....so be it.
 
Yes I have a 32.5 pilot. Isn't it running way to lean if it's over two turns out?
 
Yes I have a 32.5 pilot. Isn't it running way to lean if it's over two turns out?

no, it just means it could maybe use a smaller (leaner) pilot jet
IF, all other things are 100% correct, like all the things I've posted and asked you to check 3 or 4 times now
 
Before you go messing with needles and jets and twiddling air screws, leak test to see wether the engine is airtight.
 
lets see your blaster again
carb pics ect...just for ha ha's.

you got alot of threads of problems with that blaster.
did you fix everything the proper way or??
 
  • Like
Reactions: jvb
Yes I fixed it all the proper way. I put the needle to the middle slot and it runs a bit better but still doesn't hit powerband every time. My main jet is a 210 not a 220 sorry my mistake. And my pilot jet is a 32.5 and the float height is good.
 
My main jet is a 210 not a 220 sorry my mistake. And my pilot jet is a 32.5 and the float height is good.

that main needs bumped up to at least a 230 and plug chopped to confirm.
you're lucky a 210 hasn't already fried it.

whats the compression at ?...... good tester, hold throttle open and kick till the gauge needle stops moving.
 
A fried top end. Man there is a lot of threads on this site that would answer a lot of your questions. Take the time, use the search button, and do some research. And until then, park that blaster and don't touch it until yoive done your research. It will save you lots of time/ money.
 
Ok. I'm ordering a new intake boot, main jet. And when I put those on I think I'm gonna take off the head and inspect the top end.