Project used/abused blaster

Sweet thanks Awk08 , if your ever in North Georgia give me a shout, I will buy you a drink.

Cases are lapped, ended up using a sharpie to mark my progress.
main bearings, and piston are on the way. I still have to get a good base gasket.

Now that the motor is out , some other much needed TLC is taking place swingarm, came pivot bearings were cleaned and greased pins as well, shock bushings were greased under the spacers.
I have new axle bearings to take care of a little slack on the sprocket end, got to pick up a bigger wrench for that task.
I need to do the upper A-arm bushings at least, really should do the whole set.
I am seriously considering painting the frame and all the silver tubing If for nothing but longevity reasons.
I already repacked the front bearings when I put on new shoes

As far as the motor goes, a few more cans of brake or carb cleaner, and some replacement parts (bearings,clutch kit, gaskets, etc.) and the entire bottom end can go together all the way to the covers

The head is ready for Some KOR TLC in the form of a pumpgas rechamber.
The cylinder is close to ready as well.

The exhaust port window has been raised 1.2mm (gives low 180's duration iirc) widened by 2mm total the top radius has been increased slightly as well, as for the tunnel it was opened to the edge of where the exhaust gasket ends and smoothed along the length.

The transfer windows have not been changed (yet) plans include raising only the primaries by .5 or .6mm to take advantage of the earlier and/or more complete blowdown while maintaining the direction as much as possible, the tunnels themselves were cleaned up and opened slightly from the bottom , center divider is shaped like a kind of rounded V.

The intake windows were squared slightly and the casting smoothed out and given a tapered "mouth", the center ridge here is also a fat curved V shape. The area leading Into the boost port got about the same treatment, the AL was opened up a little toward the mains, the rest has a somewhat short bell shape, boyesen ports were added and directed as flat as possible into the transfers, directing them up into the transfers wasn't really an option, although I did direct the mouth to hopefully give a low pressure area toward the top of the transfers, when the charge is flowing. If i loose too much low mid power due to short comings in other areas I may well putty in the intake a bit to help lower rpm flow.

Reed cage, since I run dual stage Boyesen reeds and plan to continue to run them as long as I have the stock cage, and since the lower one is a solid reed that stretches all the way across the cage I see no reason to keep the divider in the cage, this may be the biggest benefit other than smoother throttle response.

The above will be run with an open airbox, mikuni vm28, and Toomey B1 handling the music.


When I go down in a minute to cut the center supports out I will get a couple pictures of my cylinder, one side is not yet a mirror image of the other, and many areas (particularly in the intake area) still need smoothing and a final finish be it glassy smooth or 80 grit rough. Constructive criticism is welcome.

Left side case half is together trans is in, I just found out that the right side case bearing I ordered a week ago is just now shipping today after I asked about it. Loops like it might be the weekend before I get the caservice finished, lockwashers arrived today, I guess I am going to clean the alignment dowels up they actually look like that were raced last time the case was apart.

I picked up a 400ex shock from Ebay for 20 and ordered a bushing and bolt set from KOR.

I still haven't placed my big heli up, even tho I have a buyer it's something I gotta do, guess I have quite the attachment to it.

The vm28 carb is hooked to its new cable and ready to go, with base jetting I have 32.5 and 35 pilots for it and two different needles to try in the O-0 N. Jet. I decided to start at first with the 35 pilot, richer of the two needles (stock), and a 360 main.

The rear caliper is now completely rebuilt and shorty cable ordered, I think i can tolerate cable brakes I the rear and if the opportunity arises I will get front hydros first.

If anyone has any jetting information with the vm28 or a bored vm26 let me know.

Today's progreys involved, more cleaning with brake kleen, carb cleaner, wd40 etc.
I also prepped the clutch components for installation, clutch rods were filed down and chamfered, clutch outer clutch basket was filed flat and square where the places contact it, steels were washed and scuffed (deglazed if you will), friction were rinsed off as well, a healthy dose of 30 weight oil was layed between each layer as the plates were stacked in order. The spring towers were shaved about .010" to allow the springs to tighten a bit more. I am going to replace the odd ball friction with a standard plate, I may put a whole set in depending in the performance of the current set.

All of the work and mods, I have presented here is available either here on the Blaster Forum, or KenOConnerRacing.com .

It would be awesome to take a bone stock blaster and build /mod it using only info found here in the forum or directly linked to from here, just to see how superior it would be...

Awk08 said:

faster for what....you have a race schedule deadline to meet ? LOL

put the engine completely together on the bench, kicker, shifter, clutch, stator, covers, top end, ect.
all buttoned up, then into the frame,
the rest of that you list that'll need done after putting engine in is a few hours work at best.
support under the frame and you can have the swinger in/on with bolt thru without the weight on it,
then back bolt out into one side and a dummy bolt partially into other side to hold swinger in place and open up the center where the engine drops into. push swinger bolt back thru all and allow it to push dummy bolt out the other side will keep everything aligned as you do so. (do the swinger bolt first before other engine mounts, allows you to wiggle engine as needed to get big bolt thru all)
that'll allow you to have the brakes hooked up, tires/rims on, and only need to fish chain around sprockets to button that back end up.

Click to expand...

Lol, faster to get, that gotta ride itch to go away, as far as that goes I put the bottom half in a couple days ago everything is on the bottom minus the kicker, (I know my 10 year old can't resist a little kicker practice, although my rod and cases wouldn't like it much)

At the rate I am going it looks like it might be a while before I get the top done as nothing is selling went back and forth all week giving a guy, who said he had the money ready and was waiting for my ppal, pic and info, finally he asks if he can pay half now and half next week. I told him sure I would box it up and put his address on it with the first half and drop it off at the post office when he payed the rest.....haven't heard from him since.

If something doesn't hurry up and happen I am going to have trade my Toomey for an out of frame drag pipe to match all the aluminum that's getting cut, I literally had to had everything but the 40 grit flap wheel and some 220 and 600 wet dry.
I am at almost 183° durationexhaust by measurement and could easily found out its 185 with a degree wheel and a piston stop transfers are at 117 and 118 atdc 126 and 124 duration these measurements I am more certain of being only so many thousandths up from stock settings.
But even at that 183° or better for exhaust duration seems to be about the minimum I can get away with and still have a decent power band, Or at least that's how I understand it.

Been a while since i posted on this one but the project continues, machine work is done and on its way back to me.

Last minute preperations i have ordered a tusk HD clutch set, 14t /41t cogs and 520/94 link chain (2 links over stock), an hourmeter/tach, also picked up various oils, grease and fuel treatment., new feeler guage set, 960 in/lb 80ft/lb torque wrench, and a 3/8 inch ratchet to replace the one that didnt survive.

Something about a 4 foot cheater pipe tends to destroy lesser tools.

I have removed all but a few of the rockstar graphic kit, i retained the tank side graphics, white stripe under the seat and along the edges of the fenders,and one on the upright part of the hood. I also am part way done with cleaning the plastics and plan on using a hard shell car wax to finish with.

Rear end is out,cleaned up and awaiting installation of new bearings.

The 400ex shock and KOR conversion bushings are installed. The front A-arm pivots have been cleaned and regreased, as well as the swing arm pivots.

I am working on front spindles and front/rear hydros, and still need tires, either a +2 or +4 swinger and front shocks, then i think i should be done mod wise except for maybe playing with the porting or going to a cr125 reed cage.

I still have 3 inch spacers for the rear and i can always flip the front which balanced out nicely with thespacers on. I figure as long asi hsve tunable shocks for the front that the flipped rims should be fine since default springs are designed for a 160-180 lb ride
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Thought it would be a good time to try and list everything I have done to her so far.

TIRES
Nothing new yet

BRAKES (ultimately plan to go with hydros F/R)
Front: New shoes, new top cable, all cleaned and lubed
Rear: Shorty cable, pads, rebuild kit installed.

SUSPENSION
Repacked front bearings, and A-arm pivots
400ex rear shock conversion
Re-packed swingarm bearings, replaced axle bearings and seals
ReAR wheel flip to add ~1" per side.
+2" Swingarm exrension

DRIVELINE
14t front 41t rear sprockets
520x100 O-ring chain
HD Clutch kit

ENGINE
Intake:
Uni dual element filter in open air box
Boyesen Power series dual stage reeds
Ported stock reed cage
Cleaned carb

Top end
Custom cut head KOR
Custom cylinder porting
.020 Bore and chamfer KOR
Wiseco Pro-lite piston and rings
Bottom end
Came with standard stroke wiseco crank and rod set
New KOYO main bearings, new seals
Port matched to cylinder

EXHAUST
Toomey B1
Repacked silencer

I think that is pretty much all I have done to it besides general adjustments and routine maintenance, such as jetting the carb, changing the oil,, etc..

The above post lists the remaining mods I have planned.

If you click on my name and goto my albums or media, I have some pics of her when I brought it home, since I have removed a good bit of the graphics and started cleaning shining on the plastics, as well as removed the rear wheel spacers.
I plan to get some new pics as soon as I get her goin, it looks like the important pieces will are slated to show up in the morn.

I also have some pics of various stages of my port work, it's pretty sloppy compared to what a real builder can do.

I had time last night to put one heat cycle on it before it got too late, definitely needs some jetting work but it starts first kick, and comes to life with a nice sound.
ÀAny how, my driveline parts are slated to be here Friday AM, so it looks like I will be able to get it wrapped up an out to the trails this weekend, where I can really run it in right.

I wanted to get a short vid of it running but it was getting late and I didn't have anyone to hold my tablet.
I will try to get a clip in the today sometime.

Here is a quick vid of it idling and revving, it's not jetted right yet and won't be until, the smaller pilot jet shows up in the mail, so it kinda sounds a little crappy. #30 pilot is in the mail then I can tune the main and needle jets, but with the pilot feeding excess fuel all the way through the throttle range it is throwing off the main a size or two, as well as messing with the needle settings.
Anyhow here it is, maybe when it quits raining I can get someone to take a little footage of me riding it. The upper rpm range where I expected it to excell is actually breaking up and sounding a little rough, if proper jetting doesnt get me the top end I expect I will have to adjust the porting, which comes as no surprise although I got my fingers crossed that it's all good.

Well I adjusted the porting and got everything back together and leak free again, and managed a couple hour session on the trails to finish the break in and do some tuning, and guys it turned out meaner than I could have hoped for, it's got the power band of a slightly built 125, and pulls harder, biggest problem is my 3/4 worn tires just can't get traction, so my wife let me order a set of 4 on her for my Christmas present.
Idle 1400, mid 3000 to 5500, Band 5500 to 8000, over rev 9200 rpm.
It will Pull em as fast as you can shift em.
I will see if I can get a gopro and get a vid a a full throttle pass, and resulting chop, I usually use a light and loop, I don't like ruining new plugs even if they are only 2 or $3.

Once I get the tires on aND the plastic finished up I will get some pics, also working on front hydros.
Getting my 10 yr old a 4 stroke 100 sized beginners bike that or an 80 for christmas, so I can have a riding buddy.