Clutch adjustment question

deeeebeeeeee

Member
Aug 20, 2015
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Rossville, Ga
My clutch seems to slip a little mostly in 6th gear , but it slips a little more than expected during hard full throttle shifts in the upper gears.
I have proper free play in the lever/cable, but I notice when the clutch is engaged the actuator moves a couple mm past the adjustment mark on top of the case.
Is there a stop on the actuator arm that would prevent the clutch from getting full spring pressure?

I don't mind pulling the clutch cover and adjusting the clutch, if that will fix the problem.
Or is it more likely that the clutch is worn/ springs are weak allowing a small amount of slipping?
I bought this bike used and have put maybe 8 or 10 hours on it, and so far it has run solid, and isn't leaking any fluids from the carb, case halves or seals, shock valves, etc., but I don't know what kind of shape the clutch is in.
I am going to guess and say the basket is grooved based on the drag I get when it is obviously released and then some. I wouldn't be too surprised if the friction plates were about shot, or even the whole thing was held together with the wrong bolts. Lol

Thanks in advance
Db
 
I'd have to say everything you said is probablly correct with the clutch.

Taking the clutch cover off and using the internal adjustment would be the way to adjust it so that it is properly aligned up.

If the basket isn't grooved to bad, you can lightly file them out. I got away with that earlier this year.

Now might be the time if you plan on pulling the clutch cover to just bite the bullet and order a quality clutch kit.

Driveline performance sells a very good kit for about $70 or so.
 
So do you think that adjusting the clutch so the actuator is properly aligned with the mark on the case will that allow room for a tighter engagement and help with the slipping?
Or is it slipping for some other reason? Too much wear, grooved basket, springs etc.


My bike really couldn't make more than an extra 10% or so peak HP at most.
Right now it doesn't slip enough to heat up and slip worse. But i am afraid when I put new 22 inch tires in place of well worn 18s that it might get worse.
Although it still grabs good enough to stand up in 3rd and since bumping the timing it will lift the front a little going to 4th.
If i can adjust it out great, if not I am not even going to pull the clutch cover until I get a new set of plates.

Thanks for the info, I am going to look into the driveline performance clutch kit.

Ride Hard
Db

Edit: For the benefit of those who have a similar question and find this post thru search. The actuator rod simply has a flat cut into it at its widest point, whenjoy the actuator is near the mark on the case one of the other rods simply sits against the flat, when the clutch is pulled and the actuator turns the cut rod, it causes the other rod to be forced away from the actuator rod as it rides up in the side of the cut out section .

A quick look at an exploded view of the clutch (yamaha parts diagram), will show the flat cut into the actuator rod, and it should then be clear what happens when the clutch is pressed.
I welcome the comments of anyone who may be able to more clearly explain how the actuator rod, does its job.

Thanks
DeeBee
 
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