My 240 with stroker build

Great news! It's alive! Got it all together and all 3 heat cycles done. Went out for spin and discovered that my chain roller was rotten and broke apart so I need to get one before I can ride it. I also need to get my front brakes rebuilt because they drag but only when you roll it backwards. I can tell the jetting is off some but running rich from what I can tell so that isn't a huge priority until it's broken in and I can plug chop to see exactly what's going on. Here it is though. Plastics are still really dirty. Might try some painting of stuff after I get it going good.

I am looking for some advise as to what you guys think about my brake problems as stated above^^. My front brakes seem to be dragging but mainly when rolling backwards. I lifted the quad and rolled the front wheels and when going forward they seem to roll good (possibly not ideal but good enough) but when I try and roll them backwards I have to use a lot of force and they will not spin without me using force on them. Rolling the bike backwards when on the ground is a work out. I know its not the wheel bearings either because when the caliper came off the wheel spins freely.

I don't know much about brakes but I know they sell rebuild kits for the calipers. What do you think could be going on with my brake calipers? What might need replaced/fixed?

We played with it on the ground, in the air, tires on, tires off. Both sides act the same. Only time it will roll free is when caliper is off. Wheel bearings are good from what I can tell. Completely silent and spin like a top.

Awk08 said:

I know on the old norman420 spindles, the caliper needs spaced out with a small washer he supplied with his kits,

to center it on the rotor.

I'm not sure if the KOR or OEM 03+ setups require that ?, or which you are using ?,

but it's worth a look.

being a single piston caliper, if spaced improperly, the stationary side could be placed so the pad is too tight against the rotor at all times.

just something to look into and maybe a simple fix with a small washer.

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Mine is an 04 so I'm assuming it's got the factory setup. I can look into it one day though.

Alright guys, I'm getting to the fine tuning point of my build and could really use some help now that jetting is all that needs done to my blaster. I still need to leak test but coming from KOR I would like to think my motor is leak free but want to leak test just in case for the intake and other issues.

I got thru my heat cycles a while back and have not been starting on my break in period of riding so I've been taking it easy (only had about 30-45 mins seat time so far).

My carb is a 35mm Keihin PWK air striker. It came with all the standard jetting:
48 pilot
DEK needle
4.5 slide
160 main

My blaster has a 72.5mm piston for an oversized big bore, ported and head mod to 170psi if i remember correctly by KOR, +3 crank, lightened flywheel, vforce 4 reeds, fat bastard pipe, cfm airbox with uni filter lid attached. I run half mix 110/93 gas with 32:1 yamalube 2s.

From what I heard in the past from AWK that jetting should be running rich just about on every level. I figured that would be fine for my break in because I'd rather be rich on break in than lean.

When starting it up, it seems to be running rich because there is a good amount of blue smoke coming out. After tinkering a little just to try and get the air screw right, I am at 2 1/2 possibly 3 turns out (will check next time I'm on it) and the throttle response off idle seems to be better. When riding at about 1/2 throttle at most it doesn't really clear out so I also assume that means I'm running rich on the needle side of things as well. Does all this sound normal for what I'm running? What do you guys suggest I do from here?

I do have one bigger concern though. After riding for about 15 minutes, my motor seem pretty hot so I took a temp reading and the cylinder/head area was reading 240 degrees. That is high isn't it? Shouldn't it be closer to 200? and does that mean I'm actually running lean? running hotter = lean if I'm not mistaken.

Also a #6 slide was suggested but the slides cost about half of what I paid for the carb so I'd like to try and get by with the 4.5 I have if possible. I also looked at the keihin specs on their big carbs and a lot of the non air strikers come with a #6 but all the air strikers (no matter the size) come with slides a lot lower number slide than their non air striker equivalent. So I'm thinking there is a reason the air strikers come with a lot richer of a slide.

What do you guys think about my jetting situation? Is it weird that it feels that I'm rich and probably am with the Jets that I'm running but my blaster still gets to 240 degrees which suggests a lean condition if I'm thinking correctly?

So lately since I noticed that I had an exhaust leak at the header-flange connection, I decided to take the pipe off and clean it along with other parts like my almost beyond repair plastics. Would you believe that this pipe was destroyed with rust and was completely discolored from the midpoint down?

Took me 4 hours by hand to make it like new and shining better than my brand new mid pipe I got for it. I also spent 3 hours on the plastics yesterday and got them in pretty good shape minus a few deep scratches.

Larry's Shee said:

Looking real good !!

Did you ever get brake, jetting, and heat issue figured out? If so, what was the issue and fix?

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Brakes just needed worked around a bit. They were just sticking from sitting so long. Sprayed them down with some chemicals and worked them back and forth and they don't drag anymore.

The jetting I started another thread for http://www.blasterforum.com/threads/jetting-help.61812/ but to sum up, I had issues with pilot jet so I just went with what others suggested and then turned the air screw based on feel of throttle response and stuff (left it slightly rich). Then I did half throttle chop and found I'm lean on needle and that where I'm at. I noticed an exhaust leak so thats why I got my pipe off and decided to do some detailing on the quad. Hopefully soon I'll get back to the carb so I can finish jetting and get riding.

Really wish I would have taken a picture of that pipe before so you guys could see the amazing restoration.

It's been a while since I updated my build thread.

The blaster is looking good and running great thanks to the help of KOR. I do have some plans for it in the near future. I will be looking to get:
Skid plates
Nerf bars (xfr with the heel guards preferably)
Tusk adjustable rear axle
ASR Long travel arms
Shocks to fit LT arms

I have a works black widow rear shock on the way. Hopefully I can get that mounted soon and maybe get some up to date pics. I have powder coating available at work so I plan to powder a few things on it in the future. Just waiting for them to set up the media blasting cabinet hopefully here in the next month or so so I can powder. I can't wait to get this thing tearing up the trails. I went for a ride last weekend and loved the power but it was horribly uncomfortable for me since I'm a big guy on stock shocks. That's why I plan to widen it and uprade the shocks. I also managed to come loose on it once and kick the front tire since i have no foot protection on it doing about 30mph in the woods. That's why the nerfs are high on the list.

I got a question about the skid plates though. Should I get a full set or wait on the arms skid plates cuz I plan on getting the ASR ones? Will the skid plates fit the ASR arms as well? Is the swing arm skid plate necessary as well since there is a factory skid plate already?

jus_me said:

The skids won't fit on the a arms. Would skid plates from a diff model fit ??

You did an awesome job cleaning up that exhaust !

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So you are saying that the skid plates will not fit aftermarket a-arms? I should just buy the the frame skid plate and the swing arm skid plate and maybe fab my own a-arm plates when I get the new ones?