2003 Blaster Restoration

BrianC1 said:
Many people here claim good success with a gasket and some yamabond or its equivalent aswel, I'll do a leak down without the liquid gasket first anyway :)
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Now that I think about it, I think it was someone using red rtv on it that they frowned upon. Good to know. Sorry for the wrong advise.
 
nick20555 said:
Now that I think about it, I think it was someone using red rtv on it that they frowned upon. Good to know. Sorry for the wrong advise.
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No worries, yes the rtv is supposed to shrink with heat and become brittle alot sooner than yamabond etc.
 
I always put a thin coat of yamabond on that sealing surface, with good results. The big thing is let it cure before you leak test it, or do anthing else to the intake. Make sure its tourqued down properly too, and you;ll be AOK.
 
yamabond or copper RTV sealant.

i would not advise using any old "liquid sealant", buy good sh*t. copper RTV is $10 a tube and best for most things on a blaster.

thin layer though, no need to glob it on. and as for cases (if you ever need to know) yamabond or dont be doing your own work
 
Thanks guys I'll be sure to purchase the correct stuff once it's going back together. Few more developments, last night I purchased a set of front 400ex shocks, collecting them this weekend, once the front is widened these will be going on.

Now to a bigger dilemma what colour will i PC the frame? Blue plastics so was thinking either dark grey, black or yellow but open to suggestions :)
 
Here's some photos of the parts blaster, the deal also includes a set of nerf bars and exhaust and few other bits that aren't attached in the photos :) plan is to view this Saturday and if all is ok bring it home :)
 

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nick20555 said:
Looks like a nice blaster. Surprised it's being sold for parts instead of being fixed
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Same here, that's why I'm a bit weary, but since I'm only buying it to part out I feel more confident. The guy selling it broke his leg so doesn't want/need it anymore apparently
 
Not to get off topic but have been busy this week preparing this S15 for sale. Me and my dad collect cars and its time to move one or two on :( sad to see this one go, planned on driving it myself at some stage. Plan for the blaster this weekend is to have the frame with the Powder Coaters :) and collect the parts blaster along with the front 400ex shocks :)
 

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BrianC1 said:
Not to get off topic but have been busy this week preparing this S15 for sale. Me and my dad collect cars and its time to move one or two on :( sad to see this one go, planned on driving it myself at some stage. Plan for the blaster this weekend is to have the frame with the Powder Coaters :) and collect the parts blaster along with the front 400ex shocks :)
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jw what you are planning to sell it for. also which engine does it have?
 
bummer981 said:
Whats the plan for the front 400ex shocks?
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Plan to widen the front either with new arms or a widening kit depending on funds, the bike won't be jumping or driven hard so, once widened then I'll fit the shocks I've read some members here have fitted them with much better results than stock :)
 
Larry's Shee said:
If you get the parts blaster, get some better pics of the engine. Can't tell if that's a yz or not.
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After further investigation it turns out it's a 1986 Tri-Z 250 engine, not exactly a YZ250 but still at least it's a genuine yamaha engine which I can break and sell :)
 
Stripped some parts from the Blaster, it has a Durablue extended axle and good condition full maier plastics so with those alone I'll nearly make all the money back :)

Now to my project I tried the swingarm bolt again with a bigger hammer, got it to move slightly but now its gone as far as a hammer is able to access?? And its still just as stiff, I tried drilling a hole into it and putting a smaller bar in to tap it out but it still wont budge, I'm not worried about ruining the bolt at this stage since I'll have another one from the parts blaster. Any ideas?
 
Have you sprayed both ends of the bolt with penetrating oil? That is how I got mine out. Spray both ends and keep turning it with a ratchet in both directions, working it in and out.

 
Yes I've sprayed both ends but only with WD40, maybe I'll a stronger penetrating oil will do the trick and a vise grips to grip it while pulling, I'll report back once I try that :) Thanks
 
I used PB blaster. I would stay away from vice grips, don't want to make any burrs on the bolt. if you weiner the socket on the bolt you should be able to work it in and out to try and get the lube inside further and further. Once you get it out be sure to clean all the penetrating oil out so it doesn't affect your new bearings. Be sure to get all the rust off of the bolt. I put a little coating of wheel bearing grease on the bolt when I put it back in.
 
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