V-Force 4 Reed Upgrade

ZeroTolerance

ZeroTolerance

Member
Apr 23, 2013
36
1
35
Katy , TX
Hey Guys,

It has been a while since my last post.
I am back and riding on my Blaster and going out this weekend with a group.
I ordered some new reeds the V-Force 4 reeds and wanted to know if i need to re-jet the carb .
I already did so im not sure what it was exactly, but i re-jetted it when i did some upgrades such as :

.30 bore over.
FMF fatty full pipe and silencer
wiseco piston upgrade
cleaned up carb and new gaskets and everything
oil block off
mix 32:1
re jetting kit was from FMF Power Up Jet Kit i did stage 2 on the instructions ( it had me change the needle to FMF one that came with it and the main jet not sure the number will notify you when i get home )
it does have stock carb
Air box and cover still installed just in case of some water just cautions,


Everything is fine tuned and good to go with the stock reed cage and boysen reeds but wanted to try this upgrade want a long lasting ride dont want to blow it up.

Now im doing V-force reeds.
 
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Reed shouldn't do any change in jetting. You should plug chop to confirm jetting, usually the stage jets are off and are never right. Most people buy single jets on here and then plug chop to perfection.
 
Ok, ill plug chop after the reed upgrade , I did one after i rebuilt the engine after porting and exhaust and cleaning upgrade last time about 8 to 10 months ago. so it shouldn't be to bad now.

Thank you again.
 
I could pay to put the stock needle back in with the clip on the middle slot, I have never had any luck with any kit needle!
 
HAHA yea when i first rebuilt it FMF recommended it and so i got it cheap and followed the instructions and had to reset the air screw and i think its like 1.5 or 2 turns and it hit the spot and did the plug chop and looked had good color and so i kept it like that and starts up like a champ one or two kicks just depends how i feel that day lol

Just making sure the V-Force reed upgrade wont mess with any of that.
 
Blaaster it's got an fmf pipe on it, should it still be on the middle slot. We just moved my buddies a slot lower since mine is on the bottom with the dmc. My buddy also has the fmf.
 
By what v.force states. A 10-15% flow increase i would certainely plug chop to confirm jetting. Ex.. A boyesen rad valve recomends re jetting and plug chopping to confirm.
 
If one is swapping needles, a plug chop should be performed at 1/2 and 3/4 throttle.

Did you adjust the idle as per specs or just turn the air screw until it felt like it was jetted good?
 
Oh no i plug chopped and adjusted the idle screw to spec its about 1.5 or 2 turns out if i can remember right , The plug is nice brownish color not white or black.. I just installed the vforce reeds last night, i am going to plug chop again today after work and make sure it is all good and get the same color plugs.
 
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Did you adjust the idle as follows?

Idle adjusting.

Set float level, make sure that all jets are clean and fuel flows freely from the float bowl drain when the screw is cracked open.

Start with air screw 1.5 turns out.

Set idle screw so that it has some sort of idle. With TORS it is the big screw under seat on top of unit. With no TORS is is the brass screw midway down carb body.

Warm up motor and then set idle screw for a faster idle, 2000rpm+

Adjust air screw either way to get the fastest idle.

Adjust air screw a little at a time leaving 10 secs or until the motor responds

Re adjust idle screw for desired idle .
 
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Yes Sir,
I sure did cleaned up and sprayed everything with carb cleaner and cleaned carb spotless and made sure it was all clean before doing it all. And it sound just about right as you listed, and i dont have tors lol that sh*ts junk .

I know i was new at the whole rebuilding long ago not anymore. It has been many years had this bike since i was 6 lol now 24.
 
I love hearing new things and leaning more each day. You are the Technician here haha not I . I only know my bike and thats about all lol if its broked then I should be able to fix it. NOW one thing i dont know anything about is 4 stroke i just got a Suzuki LT250S but dont kow how to work on it. But i am learning Youtube is a great friend!
 
I did a plug chop didn't take a pic its a little lean i think it is a little gray and has a brown tint to it. Kinda like caramel color with a coat of gray lol. I am about 2 turns out in my air screw. I tried to back the air screw all the way out almost took the thing out and it didnt change which was weird but when i turned it in all the way it did die so i know its working. So i set it to highest idl about 2 turns and then set idl with idle screw ( i have eliminated the TORS) and then did the plug chop and came out with a color that was similar to : this pic Look almost like it if not like it. IT runs great , all gears all the way to 6th and i did hold it for about 5 sec then pull in clutch and shut off. and that was the color. I do NOT have any Bogging or hickups in throtle it responds perfetly if not better since my Reed Upgrade. Now before i did the upgrades the spark plug was a little wet and the plug chop i did before was a little to Rich but now its a nice color .

So i want to know if that is ok or not.
PLugCHop.jpg
 
I have done leak down test no leaks just had to double check, and did the plug chop and came out with the pic above , it running great i think no bogging or hicups in throttle please let me know when you guys think.


Blaaster what u think ! Need some inputs.
 
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The smoke rings shows a sign of being a little too rich, but if you are not looking at a podium finish, leave well enough alone.

I always run at least a jet size rich, it you can live with the little power that is lost, it is worth it for the satisfaction that you will save costly piston replacements.
 
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