Newb 94 blaster resurrection
- Thread starter tbrooks
- Start date
You say the key switch will not kill, but will stop it from starting.
Could you be running so lean that the plug electrodes are overheated and causing pre ignition.
What plug are you using?
The phone audio is very poor, but it does sound somewhat lean by what I hear!
Could you be running so lean that the plug electrodes are overheated and causing pre ignition.
What plug are you using?
The phone audio is very poor, but it does sound somewhat lean by what I hear!
Looks Great! It has been a in the works for quite awhile now. The not wanting to shut off might be a bad kill switch too. My white blaster does the same thing, Its the switch on it.
Its a brand new switch and it reads good on continuity checks. And I was wrong it doesn't keep it from starting either. I discovered it starts first kick cold, but once warm you have to hit the gas right after you kick it. I tried pulling the choke when it was running and it died immediately. I'm gonna thouroughly go through the carb one more time and get that pilot switched out. I thought I should leave the needle, it looks fine and I know most the time you guys say to leave it be. Tomorrow evening if I got time I'll leaktest and get the carb back in. I'm not sure whats going on with it. I haven't touched any thing with the bottom or top end since I got it from Ken, other than installing and hooking everything up and re-tourqing. Its a br8es plug, and I'll pull it tomorrow to and see what it looks like. I have to say other than weed-eaters and saws and videos, I haven't heard a 2 stroke up close since I was a kid, but something doesn't sound right to me.
Oh and thanks for the compliment, sorry just aggravated. Do you guys think the idle screw is ok only lifting the slide to 1/16" gap or should I file the out side down more. Its perfectly flat now. Got the pilot screw out. It was a 32.5 and had some deposits on the top side of it, but was pretty clean through. I'll know more after (if) I get it leaktested tomorrow, but it may be a little while before I have time to start it again. I'm thinking now about the needle and if the po may have put a different one in. Would it be acceptable to use the needle from my moose rebuild kit?
The stock needle should be a 5J22 on the middle clip.
It would not hurt to take a few more swipes with the file on the idle boss if you cannot get the idle to raise over 2000 revs.
It would not hurt to take a few more swipes with the file on the idle boss if you cannot get the idle to raise over 2000 revs.
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The idle screw doesn't do anything at all. Of course its hard to tell cause I have to keep a finger on the throttle to keep it going. I decided to go in to work late this morning, cause I can lol and I wanted to check things out. The plug still looks brand new except it is covered in oil, might be some brown on the insulator but I think it was just oil. I tried to do a leak test but there is so much oil on the exhaust port, after wiping it multiple times I still can't get the plug to tighten it just spins. And the needle say 5j22 on it with some square looking symbol
My aggravation is getting worse. Awk, I'm gonna throw that rubber pos that came with the leaktester into the woods
. Don't worry I don't blame you its probably my lack of experience with it. I can't tighten it unless I leave enough sticking out to grab with channel locks, and when I do that no matter how tight I try to get it I can pop it out with one finger. I used the rubber cork (from my tile saw) and a metal bracket tightened on the exhaust nuts before and it was easy peasy, but now I can't find the bracket. so its showing I have an airleak, but until I can get the plug good I'm not even looking for it. I just don't know where it could be leaking if it is. Kor did everything except the reed boot and I put some copper rtv on it just to be safe. Gotta wait for the gf to get home before I can go back over, but I think I'm just gonna wait a couple days. On the upside the noise in my car is getting worse so I'll know whats wrong with it before long lol
. Don't worry I don't blame you its probably my lack of experience with it. I can't tighten it unless I leave enough sticking out to grab with channel locks, and when I do that no matter how tight I try to get it I can pop it out with one finger. I used the rubber cork (from my tile saw) and a metal bracket tightened on the exhaust nuts before and it was easy peasy, but now I can't find the bracket. so its showing I have an airleak, but until I can get the plug good I'm not even looking for it. I just don't know where it could be leaking if it is. Kor did everything except the reed boot and I put some copper rtv on it just to be safe. Gotta wait for the gf to get home before I can go back over, but I think I'm just gonna wait a couple days. On the upside the noise in my car is getting worse so I'll know whats wrong with it before long lol
My aggravation is getting worse. Awk, I'm gonna throw that rubber pos that came with the leaktester into the woods
my bad Tony,
advance auto was out of 1-1/8" rubber plugs when i built your tester, so i bought a 1",
I had an engine on my bench at the time that i did get it to tighten up in, so i sent it,
as i have a few other times, you're the first to tell me the 1" was trouble.
I do now have 1-1/8" plugs and will get you one in the mail tomorrow, if you need one sooner, try your local auto parts store, they're like $3
Aw man that's funny I was blaming myself lol. I cleaned the port with brake cleaner and wrapped it with elec tape and still couldn't get it to work. Don't worry about it tho, I'll find my bracket or get my gf to get one in town tomorrow. My "local" auto parts is 30 min one way. I just wanna figure this thing out so I can ride. A year is way to long to stare at a quad you've never ridden before, but don't worry, it won't go anywhere until its right!! Heading back over in a minute to find that bracket
Well I couldn't find the bracket but I was able to make that smaller plug work Awk. Just had to keep a lot of pressure inward while tightening, it was a pain but I didn't see any soap bubbles. I did however find some where boot meets reed valve. When I put the rtv I tried not to put it so that it didn't come out inside and I put it just a hair to far out on the sides, since they kinda go back in instead of having a wider sealing space. It was right at the edge, but past it, so I guess it worked until I got to messing with the carb and it must have broke loose. So put some rtv in all the right places and we'll see what she says tomorrow night!
That intake boot takes a heck of a lot of punishment. Over tighten it and it will leak due to warpage.
It must be tensioned up to 5.8 ft lbs diagonally and incrementally (a little bit bat a time) otherwise it may leak, even with RTV on it.
The carb boot and the reed block cause so many problems resulting in a cooked top end, it should be leak tested after any installation!.
It must be tensioned up to 5.8 ft lbs diagonally and incrementally (a little bit bat a time) otherwise it may leak, even with RTV on it.
The carb boot and the reed block cause so many problems resulting in a cooked top end, it should be leak tested after any installation!.
Ok guys I'm leak free, 7psi didn't budge for 10 minutes. Fired her up and with the idle screw all the way in it will stay running, barely. Can anyone confirm how far it should move the slide? Still sounds lean to my virgin ears. I can hear some pinging. Maybe my gf iphone would have better sound. I was gonna ride her, but alas I must wait until I know she is ready, I want our first time to be jus right
edit: meaning the blaster at the end there^^
edit: meaning the blaster at the end there^^
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file more off the carb bung to allow the idle screw to go in further, it's very common to follow the tors delete kit instructions to just file off the angled part till it's flat, but that has poven to not be enuf in most cases
Well do you think its good to go? Only thing that could be off would be timing, unless I hurt something on my heat cycles with that small air leak. I had a buddy listen to it and he thought he could hear a bearing, but that it may because its not gone through the full break-in. He's not an expert though
Ok so cost to rebuild my blaster ~$3000 First ride on a 2 stroke in 20 years PRICELESS. Powerband almost made me change my drawers. At the low rpms it sounds a little "pingy" and kinda runs a little rough I guess I'd say, but it only lasts for a second and then it pushes you back in the seat. After riding my daughter Suzuki 160 almost always wot, I had to adjust very quickly. And I've got the screw set on the throttle so it doesn't go above 3/4. I'm glad I gotta ride 2 tanks before I can go wot!!
. Powerband almost made me change my drawers. At the low rpms it sounds a little "pingy" and kinda runs a little rough I guess I'd say, but it only lasts for a second and then it pushes you back in the seat. After riding my daughter Suzuki 160 almost always wot, I had to adjust very quickly. And I've got the screw set on the throttle so it doesn't go above 3/4. I'm glad I gotta ride 2 tanks before I can go wot!!Similar threads
