Blaster won't start!

Rideordie

New Member
Apr 19, 2014
24
0
1
32
OK. Bear with me - this is a long story.

I have a 2004 Blaster. I was riding it 2-3 years ago, and in the middle of riding it, at high rpm, it just shut off. I couldn't get it to start at all. Turns out, it didn't have spark. I replaced the plug, coil, wire, and plug cap. Still no spark. My dad and I tracked it down to the stator being bad, as it was out of spec. We replaced that about a year ago. Afterwards, it had some spark but it seemed weak still. I got frustrated and it's been sitting since.

Now, I'm trying to get it running again. I found a thread in which someone said to put a test light on the orange wire going into the coil, and that it should light up continuously with the crankshaft. With a kick, it would get one dim light, and that was it. So I thought the CDI Box was my issue.

I got a used CDI box on ebay that supposedly was good, because the dealer wanted $180 for it. $70 later, it still wouldn't start and the test light shows the same result as the old CDI box. So, I figured it has spark at least, and damn near everything electrical has been replaced.

It still won't start. As far as my finger over the spark plug hole, it has compression. It doesn't seem to be getting fuel properly to the plug, as it's basically dry after trying to kickstart it. I tore the carburetor apart to clean it, and the bowl is filled with fuel. The reeds look OK as far as I can tell - no holes, they're not bent, etc.

I tried pouring a bit of gas into the top of the engine and then starting it, nothing. Tried spraying carb cleaner into the carb while kickstarting it, still nothing.

I am at a loss. It appears that the TORS is still connected, but my understanding is that it would have no spark if that were the culprit. We disconnected the wiring for the 2 stroke oil injection system a few years back and have been just mixing it with the gas if that matters. It doesn't even sound like it wants to start.

QUICK VERSION:
  • shut off at high rpm while riding, won't start
  • new plug, plug cap, wire, coil, cdi box, and stator
  • carb has been cleaned
  • reeds look good
  • seems to have decent compression
  • won't start with gas or carb cleaner either
  • it has fresh mixed gas
  • TORS seems connected, injection system is disconnected
 
Are all your electrical grounds and connections connected to bare metal? If not file them all down to bare metal. Is your timing key behind the stator ok? I'd check that
 
Are all your electrical grounds and connections connected to bare metal? If not file them all down to bare metal. Is your timing key behind the stator ok? I'd check that
From what I remember, the key was fine when we had it apart. All of the grounds look ok from what I can see, but I will look into it more. I Do not know what jets are in it, but theyve been in it for a long time and never gave me any issues before or after the injection system disconnect. Why do you need different jets without the injection system?
 
My friends blaster blew because it ran too lean after he took of the injector rejetting is easy
yeah I guess thats a possibility. I removed it because of horror stories of the gear breaking and the engine starving for oil. If thats the case what jets do I need then? If it blew then it would have lite to no compression though, so I dont think that's the issue.
 
yeah I guess thats a possibility. I removed it because of horror stories of the gear breaking and the engine starving for oil. If thats the case what jets do I need then? If it blew then it would have lite to no compression though, so I dont think that's the issue.
Might not be the issue, but just a thought I think stock jet is 220 (someone correct me if I'm wrong) you want to play in the 240-270 range, doing plug chops to confirm. Again might not be the issue with your quad at all but if you do get it rebuilt it may save you 100 bucks because of a blow up
 
IMO......it kinda really depends on your elevation, to wether a jet increase is needed for the added oil/less fuel of doing the oil injection delete.
yamaha decided a 230 main jet was what the blaster would come with, that cannot be correct for both sea level and denver colorado. it just can't be.
these bikes are jetted for the leanest condition known.... sea level, and have to be running rich at higher altitudes.
it's just safe for them to do that.

as for a jet increase for the mixed fuel/oil, the small amount of oil mixed in slightly effects the fuel to air ratio.
if your bike was jetted spot on confirmed with plug chops, then yes, a jet increase may be needed for the less fuel of a 32:1 oil mix.
only a plug chop will tell you if an jet increase is required.
i'm willing to bet that if the stock 230 main jet is in there, and your anywhere but sea level to a few hundred feet above, a jet increase will not be needed, as it was already running rich at altitude with the "sea level" jetting yamaha provided.

did you block off the oil injection nipple on the carb when you "deleted" the injection ?
unplugging the wires is not deleting it, that just eliminates the oil warning light.
oil injection delete: http://www.blasterforum.com/threads/how-to-remove-oil-injection-without-a-block-off-kit.3272/

do a true compression test, not the finger over the hole method mentioned.
they can be rented for free at all advance auto and autozones


onto your electrical problems....

the tors will not limit starting, only limit revving once started.
but could/should be deleted IMO
03+ tors removal: http://www.blasterforum.com/threads/03-06-tors-removal-diy.41973/

what stator did you replace the old one with ? rm stator/ricky stator ?
there have been numerous cases of those being junk straight outta the box.
a known working stock stator is your best bet.
did you replce the stator with an 03+ 5 wire stator ?
the 88-02 4 wire will not work

the ground at the coil (black wire) must have a good bare connection, take it off and clean the frame and ring connector.
no black wire should be connected or touching any black/white stripe wire, thats what kills the ignition, check them all for color coding
try disconnecting the key and kill switch one at a time to test them as the culprit.

disconnect and clean all connections, coming out of the stator and at the cdi.

follow the 03+ manuals electrical trouble shooting ?
here...http://www.blasterforum.com/threads/ignition-troubleshooting-03.46160/

downloadable manual and 03+ manual supplement
http://www.blasterforum.com/threads/downloadable-yamaha-blaster-manual.17325/
 
Last edited:
First things first. stop putting fuel into the plug hole, it washes lubrication from the cylinder walls and rings.

Lay off the carb cleaner.

Deleting the oil injection and adding oil to the fuel creates a lean mix due to oil taking the place of fuel.

The finger is not a good test of compression, a piston with a gouge out of the side of it will create enough pressure to blow the finger off.

If you have been running the engine with a lean condition, the chances are the piston could be damaged to the point of loosing compression.

Do a compression test.

Check to see if the Woodruff key that locates the flywheel is not broken, you may have spark at the wrong time.

If the jets are not clean and free from varnish then no amount of fuel in the float bowl will be enough to get through them.

3 things needed to start a 2 stroke.
1. Compression.
2. Correct mixture of fuel/air.
3. Spark at the correct time.
 
I will do a compression test tomorrow and let you guys know what I find. What is the minimum spec on these?
 
Strange because mine ran around 110 first kick. But then again it blew a few hours later lol
With compression at 110 psi and a lean mixture which eats away the piston, be prepared for it to blow.

Carnage must have been happening, as at 110 psi and the correct AFR it should last a lot more than just a few hours.
 
With compression at 110 psi and a lean mixture which eats away the piston, be prepared for it to blow.

Carnage must have been happening, as at 110 psi and the correct AFR it should last a lot more than just a few hours.
Yeah I was running lean this was way back when I had a stock jet
 
Well you guys were right. Tested compression and it only had 25psi.

Dropped it off to have the bore looked at and top end ordered.