Recent content by shee4speed

you will prob.also need one of these.http://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/productDetail.do?&navType=type&webTypeId=140&navTitle=Tools%2FShop&webCatId=22&prodFamilyId=19017

you talking about one of these? http://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/productDetail.do?&navType=type&webTypeId=140&navTitle=Tools%2FShop&webCatId=22&prodFamilyId=17166

thats odd.53 ft/lbs should hold it on. maybe try a drop of loctite???

make sure you don't have an air leak in the intake.are you running stock reeds? If so,you need the stoppers.I'm sure.You can disconnect the tors and leave it there.

don't run it no more,untill you get the injector removed.Or put oil in it.With it like that the oil tube will suck air and lean it out and boom.

put it in with the markings facing out.those pics are hard too see.

cool,I was hoping that.Thanks

Say I already have a ported motor.And I decide to upgrade the crank to a stroker.Do I need a new jug or can my porting me modified?

the engine still turns over,but tighter than without the gear nut on.The only thing I can tell is causing this is the spacer doesn't turn easily in the seal.That spacer turns in the seal when running,right? crankshaft endplay is good.the seal is in there flush. I only have one seal that would...

I am putting this blaster back together,after replacing all seals and crank bearings.Every time I tighten the primary drive gear nut,the motor tightens up.Is it becase the seal on the spacer is new?That spacer is hard to turn inside the new seal.Will it loosen up? I just put the nut finger tight...

good thing he's okay man.

do you happen to have any pics of the crank seals installed?

I'll keep that in mind.I was suposed to have this finished by now,just been busy with x-mas.

Can I use Yamabond for the silicone?I like OEM also.

Thanks for the info.I would have never thought about loctite on the seals.The Clymers don't say that.