Cable Rear Brakes. "How to make them work"

I've been fiddling with these brakes for weeks now on my '98. got the shorty cable on today but still has issues. the pads are new. mechanism is all greased up and moving nicely. I've tried adjusting these things every possible way you could imagine. I get a really good pedal for 1 or 2 pushes of the pedal, then it just locks up. the self adjuster doesn't seem to know to stop adjusting. after a couple pedals it is so tight inside the housing that the caliper has no room to come back and locks the pads to the disk. all I have to do is loosen one of the 3 hexhead screws 1/8 to 1/4 turn and it frees the caliper instantly. but the very next time I push the pedal down with my hand it does it again. completely locked up. then loosen the next hexhead a bit and bingo, freed up again. I don't have to tell you what happens the next time I push the pedal down. thinkning about trying to deactivate the self adjuster so it stops cranking down the push pin thing. i'd rather adjust it once every other time I go riding than have brakes for one or two stops then a smoking disk cause they won't release. I have the spring in place and it works fine. any ideas?
 
Very good write up this is the way to go if you have cable breaks. Don't worry about losing the parking break it will work the same as before it won't lock the rear lol so your actually losing nothing but some unneeded weight lol, I bought the shorty cable for my blaster that has cable breaks day one when I got it they also make longer ones for those that have + swing arms. 100% way to go. When I did mine I sanded the inside on the mechanism side and polished it to help the pad slide easier just a tad nothing crazy lol and put some grease in there works flawless.
 
My Mechanism dose not move at all its a siezed up i think i need a while new mechanism.
 
yes, thats a shorty
goes from pedal to caliper only, and eliminates the cable to the hand lever, which deletes the parking brake feature, but who needs that ?
comes with a new barrel for in the brake pedal, and new caliper gasket
i have a stock blaster and want to convert to shorty cable. does the +4 in cable affect anything? should i buy the stock or does the +4 benefit me?
 
Does anyone know how to free the moving circular brake pads...mine seems to look like its been pushed unevenly and got stuck... i just can't free it at all

I'm having this same issue. Everything worked fine before I decided to completely rebuild my blaster. I got new pads and tried to replace the old ones, now the larger pad is stuck and I can't seem to get it free. If I can get it out I would try sanding the inside wall of the caliper a little but it's really stuck in there now from trying to get it in place. Anyone else had this problem? I need help! Any tips or tricks would be greatly appreciated! Thanks in advance.

 
I've been fiddling with these brakes for weeks now on my '98. got the shorty cable on today but still has issues. the pads are new. mechanism is all greased up and moving nicely. I've tried adjusting these things every possible way you could imagine. I get a really good pedal for 1 or 2 pushes of the pedal, then it just locks up. the self adjuster doesn't seem to know to stop adjusting. after a couple pedals it is so tight inside the housing that the caliper has no room to come back and locks the pads to the disk. all I have to do is loosen one of the 3 hexhead screws 1/8 to 1/4 turn and it frees the caliper instantly. but the very next time I push the pedal down with my hand it does it again. completely locked up. then loosen the next hexhead a bit and bingo, freed up again. I don't have to tell you what happens the next time I push the pedal down. thinkning about trying to deactivate the self adjuster so it stops cranking down the push pin thing. i'd rather adjust it once every other time I go riding than have brakes for one or two stops then a smoking disk cause they won't release. I have the spring in place and it works fine. any ideas?
 
I am rebuilding a model 2001. It is all done but, I am having the same problem that you posted. Did you get it fixed? if so how did you do it?
 
If you're having same problem of the brake pad being to big, sand the pad not the caliper. If for some reason it doesn't work, at least you haven't junked the caliper.
I followed this thread exactly and it worked properly afterwards.
 
Not sure if the brake pads are too big.... But everything works fine when i put it together, Then after a few pumps on the brakes the brakes lock up and do not release. Then if I loosen the three Allen head screws 1/4 turn the caliper releases. DRIVING ME NUTS!
 
Not sure if the brake pads are too big.... But everything works fine when i put it together, Then after a few pumps on the brakes the brakes lock up and do not release. Then if I loosen the three Allen head screws 1/4 turn the caliper releases. DRIVING ME NUTS!

Did you follow this thread EXACTLY? If yes , reinspect caliper insides. Might have to buy some parts.
 
I just got a rear brake in the mail used... it did not come with the 2, 12mm bolts. how long are they? also is there a washer that goes in between the bracket and the caliber to space it out? I have a 2002 model. I plan on getting the shorty cable but have not yet. I have not attempted to install yet..the "skinnier" pad, wiggles is it supposed to?
 
Ha ya I bought a 2002 and I love it... but the rear brakes are thepitts

You decent at fabrication? Welding? Use your imagination !! I used a complete Warrior setup. Look at stock warrior or banshee, distance from brake pedal to master cylinder pivot is important. Only mistake I made. Still works, I just have to push harder