That picture looks like the new windows in the cylinder are at the bottom of the exhaust port?
Ha! Then in that case you are looking at it upside down!
Nobody knows aproximatley how big u can make the connecting holes?
A lot of the advice (with some exceptions) you receive off the internet and forums is OPINION, not hard earned fact. A guy drills some triples, polishes them up perfect, and the engine works better. He will tell you the perfect size for triple ports is 6.2mm because his are 6.2mm and work great, but he really doesn't know. He did not try 6mm or 6.5mm so he will never know the optimum size.
This engine's cylinder comes apart wonderfully easy. Polish up the size you have now and try it. Some day when you have the time, haul the cylinder off and try 0.5mm larger. Do this again and again until it no longer has an effect, then you will know something for sure.
<SOME SNIPPED> The more I'm getting into these motors the more it appears the exhaust port timing and configuration plays a HUGE roll in the end result. I had been focused more on the intake side until I've been researching more lately. Not to say the intake isn't important, but Im much more familiar with 4 strokes where it don't seem like the exhaust side is nearly as critical. Thanks a ton for the info guys!
You are right, this is the case. Widening the top of the exhaust port window has an effect on waking up RPM much like raising the port but doesn't kill the mid-range torque. That is why the triples are flat-topped. The bottom of the exhaust port has little influence.
As for the intake, I found a 6mm slot in the piston and closing up the volume of the reedbox helped immensely. This piston looks like crap because it was about to be scrapped. When running on a budget, experiment on your old engines, put what you know into your new stuff:
And for epoxy stuffing the reed box:
Steve