Clutch Plate Placement Write Up.

PikledBeats

New Member
Apr 19, 2010
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Idaho
Ok, so there is a very good clutch write up including a video you should watch before doing your clutch. Located Here:
http://www.blasterforum.com/engine-13/blaster-clutch-information-35192/

The problem is there is not a write-up covering placement of clutch plates.

This write up is not intended to show you how to replace your clutch but I am writing to add to the other write-ups mainly in concern to placement of clutch plates. I have talked to a few members to concur on what is the best placement for clutch discs. I am not saying this is the definitive way, but am sharing what I and a few other members suggest.

So to get started I will provide a clutch diagram and clear up a few terms I will use in this write-up.

Clutch Boss – Inner Clutch Basket
Clutch Housing – Outer Clutch Basket
Clutch Plate – Metal Clutch Disc
Friction Plate – Fiber/Cork Clutch Disc
Pressure Plate – Clutch Cover
Cushion Spring – Wave Disc/Plate

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So as stated this write-up is to add to others in concern of placement of clutch plates, I have seen many questions asking and often seen members refer to placement like a clock. As in clutch plates should go at 3, 6, 9, o’clock etc. This can be confusing to some, and so I will be doing this write-up not in reference to a clock, but by slots in the clutch boss as the tabs of the clutch plates line-up within the clutch boss slots.

This clutch was pulled but I thought I would do this write up with everything stock while I have it here, so it was not confusing to members working on stock clutch.

For reference there is seven friction plates (one with a larger inside diameter), six clutch plates, and one cushion spring, within your clutch baskets. Please refer to diagram provided for order.

Picture 1 – Shows the pressure plate and dot which you will need to take note of when replacing clutch
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Picture 2 – Shows clutch boss with all discs removed, notice it is also marked with a dot.
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Picture 3 – This shows the placement of first clutch plate, As I only covering clutch plate placement it should be noted as shown in diagram that the first friction plate has been put in. (normal size friction plate). You will note that the screwdriver shows where the tab on clutch plate has been placed in relation to slots on the clutch boss, this is one slot to the right of the dot on clutch boss.
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Picture 4 – Although I am only covering clutch plate placement picture 4 shows the next friction plate, this friction plate has a bigger inside diameter than the rest, and the difference is made up by what is called the cushion spring. It should be noted that this friction plate and cushion spring can be fully replaced with one full size friction plate. (This is suggested for modified engines, this is my opinion….and is debated)
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Picture 5 – Shows where the second clutch plate is placed in relation to clutch boss, this clutch plate goes in after friction plate with larger inside diameter and cushion spring. I am working to the left so notice I have skipped three slots of the clutch boss from placement of last clutch plate and the tab on second clutch plate sits in the fourth slot to the left of the dot on the clutch boss (shown by screwdriver).
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Picture 6 – Shows the next clutch plate placement (Plate #3). Notice I again have moved to the left, skipping three slots in the clutch boss and the clutch plate tab is in the eighth slot to the left of the dot on the clutch boss.
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Picture 7 – Shows the next clutch plate placement (Plate #4). Notice I again have moved to the left, skipping three slots in the clutch boss and the clutch plate tab is in the twelfth slot to the left of the dot on the clutch boss.
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Picture 8 - Shows the next clutch plate placement (Plate #5). Notice I again have moved to the left, skipping three slots in the clutch boss and the clutch plate tab is in the Sixteenth slot to the left of the dot on the clutch boss.
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Picture 9 - Shows the last clutch plate placement (Plate #6). Notice I again have moved to the left, skipping three slots in the clutch boss and the clutch plate tab is in the twentieth slot to the left of the dot on the clutch boss.
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It should be noted that the last clutch plate is not spaced evenly from the first as the clutch boss does not have an even number of slots (23).

Continued in next post..........................Uploaded pic limit
 
Picture 10 – Shows Pressure plate lined up with dot on clutch boss, make sure this is done when putting pressure plate on.
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Since this is just for write-up I will not cover springs etc since I am pulling this whole basket, but keep in mind when putting springs in the screws that hold them should only be torqued to 4.3ft lb. as per Yamaha manual

Remember to place a friction plate between each clutch plate.

It is also suggested by almost all clutch manufacturers to soak friction plates in oil you plan on running in clutch case for 24hrs prior to install. Everyone has opinion on best oil to use, I suggest BelRay 80weight gear saver.

I would also suggest if you are going to use your stock basket you easily mod it following Ken O’Connors video located here. Which also includes many other blaster assembly videos
YouTube - ‪koconnor07's Channel‬‏

I would also ask that if you have info to add, or links, please post, I would also ask for this to be stickied. Remember I just said this is my opinion on clutch plate placement so no need for debate.
 
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This is also just suggestion to help, you could line up tabs and it will run and there is some question if it even matters. But since there are alot of questions just thought I'd take it on...
 
does it matter where the plates go?
Rep Given

This is quoted from slickerthanyou

"I have learned this only buy actaully having to do this, with the help of Mr. Oconner! This is for my driveline performance clutch i purchased it also came with the same instructions as Ken gave me but he dumbed it down for me... The reason the reason you space the steelies is for balance (vibration), I was taught to start at the 12 oclock position (with of course the first fiction (fiber) plate in) then count four spaces put the next one, repeat this process until you have all the metal plates in."

I also had the same question, when preparing to do this write-up, so opened a thread and asked, I assume ken and slick both know what they are talking about concerning vibration although I also know your clutch will run with them spaced however, hence why I did the write-up to clear confusion and as said this is not the definitive way of doing things but just an opinion.
 
My first quoted post! I'm a star! I will add the clutches i got from 442, doesn't have the humps on the steels. They are all uniform, But there is a Dull side (unfinished) and a smooth side (finished) I cannot find my directions form Driveline, But i do remeber reading that you should have all the plates the same way either shiny side towards you or dull side towards you. I don't have a reasoning but do remember distinctly. I will try to find the directions that came with my kit and scan and post it!
 
just got finished and acomplished 2 things and ruined one.
i put one of my old friction plates in and ruined the friggin gasket.wiseco's gasket damn near didnt fit the clutch cover i will be watching for leaks now
but did manage to put blue lock tight on the 5 bolts
 
just got finished and acomplished 2 things and ruined one.
i put one of my old friction plates in and ruined the friggin gasket.wiseco's gasket damn near didnt fit the clutch cover i will be watching for leaks now
but did manage to put blue lock tight on the 5 bolts

Locktight what five bolts, the springs bolts? I have never used locktight on them. Too afraid of snapping the aluminum.
 
you tellin me i made 2 booboo's in one day?
thats just great
but wait i did put some on my kick starter nut.that was loose lol
 
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kickstarter nut is fine it needs torqued to 47 ft lbs, but yea, maybe you should pull spring screws now and clean them so that they don't completely lock. I think I put it in write up but these only get slightly over four ft lbs torque. I have made mistake of breaking clutch boss spring bolt mount. the spring pushing against will keep bolt from backing out.
 
My first quoted post! I'm a star! I will add the clutches i got from 442, doesn't have the humps on the steels. They are all uniform, But there is a Dull side (unfinished) and a smooth side (finished) I cannot find my directions form Driveline, But i do remeber reading that you should have all the plates the same way either shiny side towards you or dull side towards you. I don't have a reasoning but do remember distinctly. I will try to find the directions that came with my kit and scan and post it!

Awesome, any added ifo would be great, with the links I posted, yours and this write-up it should fully cover clutches, minus aftermarket which I was planning on adding when I do my ported motor build. Thx again for initial info, It was funny I added the third post as instantly after doing it people questioned whether placement mattered. But like said I am not claiming this is a definitive write-up just that I know it works this way and others agree.I:I
 
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kickstarter nut is fine it needs torqued to 47 ft lbs, but yea, maybe you should pull spring screws now and clean them so that they don't completely lock. I think I put it in write up but these only get slightly over four ft lbs torque. I have made mistake of breaking clutch boss spring bolt mount. the spring pushing against will keep bolt from backing out.

In the words of my Homie "AWK" ^^^ That is Gospel!!^^^

Awesome, any added ifo would be great, with the links I posted, yours and this write-up it should fully cover clutches, minus aftermarket which I was planning on adding when I do my ported motor build. Thx again for initial info, It was funny I added the third post as instantly after doing it people questioned whether placement mattered. But like said I am not claiming this is a definitive write-up just that I know it works this way and others agree.I:I

For sure, Good info especially for the guy or kid who has never done it before, It really isn't hard one you can actually have a visual! I know it would of helped me when i first started messin around with Blasties. Tried to give ya Rep but I gave ya too much already!! Bastards!
 
Found that driveline instructions! I knew I had them somewhere!

There was three pages and two of them are from the blaster manual-

PAGE 1-
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Page 2- just tells ya what everything is-
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Page 3 is actual instructions Note number two that is what i was talking about smooth and rough sides of the steel plates.
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good deal, I was gonna throw some rep back your way for helping thread, I guess i'm in same boat as you though and gotta throw some around....lol
 
Stole this from other thread to add here.....


Ok, from the begining, You had it all apart so was it put together correctly, Two things come to mind, if it's not disengaging.

Take all the fiber and steel plates out of the clutch basket, Put the motor in neutral, MAKE SURE IT"S IN NEUTRAL, now can you spin the inner basket? If answer is yes, then I'd say it's an adjustment issue.

How to do proper adjustment- (Ya have to remove the cable first! And remember Fiber plate goes in first then steel, then fiber then steel... until all are in you should end up with a fiber plate in last!)

1. loosen the outer center nut on the pressure plate almost all the way off
2. hold the clutch lever (the part that the cable hooks onto in the motor) and gently push it towards the front of your bike to relieve the spring tension
3. Now with a small phillips turn the center shaft in which ever direction it takes to align the pointer marks up as you are applying a little pressure to lever shouldn't take many turns you will feel it move. [usually clockwise] Pic of arrow on caseVV (the point on the clutch shaft should point to this arrow on the case)
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4. When it is aligned, let the lever go it will go off the arrow due to spring tension that's ok. Keep your screw driver on there and take your wrench 10mm and tighten the center nut down snug while holding the center rod tight so it doesn't move. (I used blue locktight on threads also)
5. Now take a socket and tighten it down good but becareful you dont overtighten it and snap it just a good snug tight is perfect. 5 ft lbs is what the manual says.
6. Put the cover back on, make sure your spring for the kick gear is in the hole when you do this or you'll be replacing some more parts down the road (experience talking here!).
7. attach the cable back up and adjust that just until you feel the springs on the pressure plate start to hit, then back off 1/8 turn and try that, ya may need to play with the adjustment on the handle bar lever as it warms up.

If you cannot reach any step a couple things to look at are, Missing ball bearing or two ball bearings accidentally put in, bad clutch lever shaft, incorrect number of plates or incorrect pressure plate placement (DOTS ALIGNED).
 
im a newbie i have a 99 blaster just changed the clutch plate and clutch boss i have a new push rod and ball bearing on the way and new clutch cabel to put on today my only concern is ive seen so many clutch placements done but never was shown that they work???? so what do i do cause i do not want to keep pulling it apart