I blew my piston in my 97 blaster and I am going to split the case to get all the metal out of the crankcase. I need to know if I can use torch heat on the bearings to remove and install the crankshaft? If I can't then what is the best way to do this? I am trying to get by without spending the 100$ on the crankshaft tool.
How to remove and install crankshaft without special tool?
- Thread starter rankin280
- Start date
You CAN use a dead blow hammer to smack the cases apart gently.
You could also take the case and turn it upside down and rinse the crud out. That would also give you a clear line of sight on the bottom of the crankcase to see if the crankcase was cracked by piston/crank interference.
You could also take the case and turn it upside down and rinse the crud out. That would also give you a clear line of sight on the bottom of the crankcase to see if the crankcase was cracked by piston/crank interference.
Bearings need to be checked thoroughly. If they injested aluminum pay close attention to rough spots. If they have rough spots, they need to be replaced. If they do not have rough spots they can *probably* be reused. Seals should be replaced if they even look suspicious.
Is the engine still together right now? If it is, you really should do some diagnostic work on it to figure out why it blew in the first place. The best bet is to do a leakdown test and find your airleak before it finds that new top end you'll have on it when you get done.
Is the engine still together right now? If it is, you really should do some diagnostic work on it to figure out why it blew in the first place. The best bet is to do a leakdown test and find your airleak before it finds that new top end you'll have on it when you get done.
For the peace of mind, new crank bearings area good idea. Seals every time, period.
I don't know royalt, if someone messes up and buys some of those Vito's crankseals with the manufacturing defect, I think they'd be better off reusing old ones...
just do new bearings and seals.
i cheaped out on my boys bike and the used
(but felt good) bearings i left in there went out after a few months and took everything else with them, cost me 3 times as much to repair as new bearings would have in the first place
i cheaped out on my boys bike and the used
(but felt good) bearings i left in there went out after a few months and took everything else with them, cost me 3 times as much to repair as new bearings would have in the first place
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Someone had a post on here a while back about a defective seal lip. It was a manufacturers defect because the lip itself wasn't made right.
I don't think Vito's makes much of anything themselves, they have things made for them and then resell. Anytime the company that's making a product doesn't have their name on it (reputation at stake) it will be inferior in quality. Vito's doesn't have time to inspect every gasket and seal they sell so occasionally a bad one slips out. I don't think every product they make is poor, just quality control isn't as good as if they were making it themselves.
I don't think Vito's makes much of anything themselves, they have things made for them and then resell. Anytime the company that's making a product doesn't have their name on it (reputation at stake) it will be inferior in quality. Vito's doesn't have time to inspect every gasket and seal they sell so occasionally a bad one slips out. I don't think every product they make is poor, just quality control isn't as good as if they were making it themselves.
call me young and ignorant, but ive always got crank seals off egay.. Usually with a hot rods bearing kit.. 40$ if you look hard enough..
But ive never had any issues with just the run of the mill seals.. like from KS.. Cuz they make seals and gaskets, its not a resale jobbie.. Still tho, i check everything really carefully when assembling an engine.
But ive never had any issues with just the run of the mill seals.. like from KS.. Cuz they make seals and gaskets, its not a resale jobbie.. Still tho, i check everything really carefully when assembling an engine.
AWK sucked a K&S gasket (green one with the silicone line on it) into a transfer port a few months back and destroyed Ken O'Connor's wife's engine. Nothing a bore and a new piston couldn't cure but unfortunate none the less.
The OEM base gasket is considerably more substantial than the K&S variety and is highly recommended.
As for the crank seals, I think any brand is about the same as the other. The main concern with the seals is to inspect before installation. Even the best reputation company can produce a bad seal once in a while. With a careful eye problems can be caught before they are actually a problem.
The OEM base gasket is considerably more substantial than the K&S variety and is highly recommended.
As for the crank seals, I think any brand is about the same as the other. The main concern with the seals is to inspect before installation. Even the best reputation company can produce a bad seal once in a while. With a careful eye problems can be caught before they are actually a problem.
ive got the crank case split and all new bearings and seals (went with all balls) The cylinder is 20 over with a new wysco piston and rings and all new top end gaskets. Now the problem is i cant get the crank out of the right side of the crank case. I dont have the puller/installer tool. My question is how do i get the crank shaft out of the case with out the tool. Can i use a small torch? I have already tried a dead blow hammer and I am getting ready to order the puller/installer tool cuz i dont know what else to do. thanks for the help
